It's a new build house with two zones. Zone 1 only has 3 smallish radiators, whereas zone 2 has 8, when we tested with just zone 1 on full blast, the boiler was reporting 34C, which he said was way too hot, with zone 2 on it reported 25C, which was borderline. With just HW, it was fine. He said that when the TRVs in zone 2 were shutting off, the heat was returning to the boiler because there wasn't enough demand from zone 1. It's a Redrow house, I suspect they've bought at a price.dewaltdisney wrote: ↑Fri Jan 10, 2025 5:19 pm Thanks for coming back, that is an unusual situation. Normally an installer would have a good idea of the output boiler required for a house's heated area. It might have been a case that the boilers were bought at a price rather than to a specification. Who knows? At least you know the situation now.
DWD
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Logic Heat2H15 Query
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Post by Someone-Else »
Why not have both zones on at the same time? I wouldn't want a part of the house cold because that zone is not on.
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We do have both zones on when the heating is on. He wanted to test what the boiler was doing when one zone was on.Someone-Else wrote: ↑Fri Jan 10, 2025 6:32 pm Why not have both zones on at the same time? I wouldn't want a part of the house cold because that zone is not on.
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Post by Someone-Else »
oh
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
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I'm sure he also said the flow was insufficient, could that also cause the isssue?
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Post by Someone-Else »
I was only asking because it does not sound right to me, but then I am NOT a heating engineer.
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Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
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What doesn't sound right?Someone-Else wrote: ↑Fri Jan 10, 2025 6:54 pm I was only asking because it does not sound right to me, but then I am NOT a heating engineer.
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Post by Someone-Else »
Everything.
Why have 3 rads on 1 zone and 8 on another zone, seems daft to me
Then you say
I don't see how it can be too powerful if the flow is insufficient.
I would call the manufacturer. (And I am still not a heating engineer)
Why have 3 rads on 1 zone and 8 on another zone, seems daft to me
Then you say
But then you say.
I don't see how it can be too powerful if the flow is insufficient.
I would call the manufacturer. (And I am still not a heating engineer)
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.


Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section

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Ah I see. He said both things, granted only one of them may be correct, and he was an engineer from the manufacturers. The temp was too high with zone 1 on, borderline with zone 2 and ok with just the HW. I dunno, it works, obviously, but it can't be good for it if it's overheating.Someone-Else wrote: ↑Fri Jan 10, 2025 7:31 pm Everything.
Why have 3 rads on 1 zone and 8 on another zone, seems daft to me
Then you sayBut then you say.
I don't see how it can be too powerful if the flow is insufficient.
I would call the manufacturer. (And I am still not a heating engineer)
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Just to add, we've now had about 5 people out to look at it, plumbers and engineers, the conclusion is that the heating system itself is OK, but the boiler is defective and needs replaced. Hopefully next week.
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Post by dewaltdisney »
Blimey, that is unusual. I hope it gets sorted finally
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Further update. Another visit from Ideal and plumber. Now decides it's not the boiler per-se, but the TRVs. Specifically, we need to have all TRVs fully open otherwise the system overheats. So much for room control.
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Post by Someone-Else »
As I understand it (and you haven't said anything) you have to have ONE radiator with no TRV, this acts as a bypass to stop the boiler over heating
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.


Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section

Someone-Else
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Logic Heat2H15 Query
Yes, there's two of those, one in each zone and closest to the thermostat. But all the other radiators, including towel rails, must be open fully otherwise the boiler overheats.Someone-Else wrote: ↑Sat Feb 15, 2025 7:21 pm As I understand it (and you haven't said anything) you have to have ONE radiator with no TRV, this acts as a bypass to stop the boiler over heating
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