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Have not used Gliddens so not sure. I am going to give it a go and also crown. It seems only to be a problem where there is poor natural light ie staircases, rooms with small windows. The problem I had with it was , paintwork yellowing just like it does on the inside of cupboard doors, but it's happening in about 7 days.
Have you used Gliddens in those conditions recently?

Wjs123 - I apologise for my suspicions.

I've just read your other post regarding how long you've been in the business and it seems to me that the Dulux rep probably has a very good relationship with you and feels he can give you honest advice regarding his products, even if it isn't the advice you would expect a rep to give.

I've only been a dec for three years so I haven't come across yellowing gloss before. for the last six months or so I have been recommending satinwood to my customers as I prefer it for several reasons: a) it is self-undercoating so b) the second coat doesn't need to be as heavy as a gloss topcoat would be as it is exactly the same colour, c) I think it looks nicer when dry, a posher finish, if that's the right word and d) I've heard it doesn't yellow like gloss.

Most of my customers are accepting my recommendation after I explain the non-yellowing bit and the better-looking bit.

Unfortunately I'm using undercoat and gloss this week and I'd forgotten how much slower it is than two coats of satinwood.

Wjs123 wrote:Have not used Gliddens so not sure. I am going to give it a go and also crown. It seems only to be a problem where there is poor natural light ie staircases, rooms with small windows. The problem I had with it was , paintwork yellowing just like it does on the inside of cupboard doors, but it's happening in about 7 days.
Have you used Gliddens in those conditions recently?

I have been using Gliddens gloss in all kinds of places and conditions for years and can't say I've seen it yellow any more than other brands.
However I do try to use Satinwood as much as psdible for easiness, and it's my preferred finish.

Hi everyone, just a quickie about VOC 2010. Due to the saving of the environment VOC 2010 legislation states that solvent content of all solvent based paints has to be reduced significantly. So any paint with the nice VOC 2010 stamp on it contains less solvent more resin.

Due to been in the trade 21 years now I know that all white solvent paint does turn yellow eventually, some quicker than others, ie heating, smoking, UV rays don't help, but mainly its due to the content of resin in the paint.

Some may have noticed that the undercoat now shines and takes a while to dull, same with eggshell, due to having more resin in it and less solvent. For us painters its start of a nightmare as drying time is longer between coats etc, therefore jobs will take longer to do

More info can be found here, http://www.icipaints.co.uk/products/201 ... n_done.jsp

hi folks
i've tried all sorts, the last one was wicks own make satinwood, not the water based rubbish. it lasted 2 years, just use a good undercoat.

I Agree that water based is the way to go. I know it does not give the same quality finish but it is getting better and if used with a good synthic brush (i use Purdy's ) 2 good coats normally gives a satisfactory result .
Another factor is much quicker drying times allowing 2 coats to be applied in same day if you get the first one on early doors.
I like Johnstones water based gloss and never had any complaints . still like their oil base as well but if push comes to shove Eggshell everytime for me.