www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk

i thought about that but decided it would then have to be 5mm longer to give you a 45 degree lead in angle and give you a leading edge that was less freindly to pipes and wires also protruding by 5mm as well of course
so groud it flat and smooth so at worst will pinch the wire by however less than 22mm the floor is at any part becaus of wear or sanding

to be honest with the blade occilating at 2100 strokes a min or 35 a second and with pendulum action cutting around 1mm more on the up stroke you would have to move faster than around an inch a second for the the blade to hit on the way down and i was only pushing at perhaps one or 2mm a second

If you are talking boards and not tongue and groove, I found the best way would be to get two bolsters ,bang in each side of the board then lift the board 25mm, take out the bolsters then cut throuh the board with a hand saw in the middle of the joist, so that when cut, 25mm of each end sits on the joist, quicker and easier dont you think? sling the jig saw! and mind the cut nails!

as you know the tried and tested methods are the best and willl stand the test of time

other ideas get thrown in the mix over the centurys some turn into normal practises some fall by the way side my idea has a small chance of catching on [less than 1000 to one ] unless people keep trying nowt will ever change

Big-all iv'e use the method with a cut down jigsaw blade if no skillsaw to hand but i grind the end of the blade both sides so you get a chisel action aswell which cuts out the bounce affect

as a "v" or a flat end pointed

big-all wrote:as a "v" or a flat end pointed

As a V by grinding a bevel on both sides of the blade

This helps in two ways

It helps the blade find the re-entry point better if the stroke on the jigsaw is greater than the thickness of timber

Once the blade has cut through the material instead of a square edge on the bottom of the blade hammering on the joist the point will penetrate it slightly