www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk

moderator6 wrote:

big-all wrote:are you planning on a part open back if not what have you planned for the cables and leads??
remember scart leads need around 70mm from the back off a machines for clearance

You seriously need to update your gear BA

really not worried about high definition with 60 year old eyes and ears there is no such thing

custom made wrote:

royaloakcarpentry wrote:Ha ha...you know me too well.

Shame cos he knows how to do joinery.

I could have used biscuit/dowell joint but thought as it wouldn't be seen I would just use pocket holes Lazy way out of doing the face frame as well

For a moment I thought it was going to read mortice and tenon.

Doors

royaloakcarpentry wrote:

custom made wrote:

royaloakcarpentry wrote:Ha ha...you know me too well.

Shame cos he knows how to do joinery.

I could have used biscuit/dowell joint but thought as it wouldn't be seen I would just use pocket holes Lazy way out of doing the face frame as well

For a moment I thought it was going to read mortice and tenon.

More photos. Fitting hinges to doors.

excellent fit and nice job
but before your final tinkering place the cabinet in place as the actual setup and clearances will will be goverened by how level the floor is

Hi BA

Yes I won't be going any further until the unit is assembled and in place. I find getting the hinges done at this point makes it a lot easier. I could have used blum hinges which would have made my life a lot easier but for this project I prefer the look of the mortise hinges on the front.

Finally finished hanging all the doors to the face frame. I'll start on the carcass this evening

Another few photos. Didn't manage to get much done with this in the last week, hopefully I'll get it finished this weekend.

Managed to get the oak top machined up last night. The top is 450 width x 2100 length x 20mm thickness. I've numbered the boards (which you probably can't see) in the sequence I want them to appear when I glue up. I'm also going use biscuits to join each board.

Some more photos. I've a few things left to do such as fitting skirting to the base of the unit and two slips to fit to the front of the unit. I can then give a final finish sand to everything and apply base coat and lacquer.

Are you still going to paint the base part? I like your corner cramp solution

DWD

Hi DWD

Thanks.

Everything except the oak top with be cream/white, I'll use an ac laquer on the oak.

That looks fantastic CM, good job.
For the top, did you use Sash clamps for the glue up? I'm new to woodworking and need to buy clamps as I don't have any, however clamps arent cheap when you need to buy 5/10 for a table top, so I want to make sure I buy the correct ones!

Hi Mike

Yes I used sash clamps (see photo) for the glue up, 6 in total. If you can stretch your budget I would recommend purchasing t-bar clamps. The are more expensive but are a lot easier to use. Sash clamps have a tendency to fall over when you are trying to clamp your work. T-bar clamps stay upright and the steel is very straight and rigid compared to sash clamps.