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Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 2:40 pm
by Teabag
I also recommend at least 1600 watts of power to cope with the thickness of the worktop.
John
yep I agree, but tbh smaller motors will cope np, just take smaller depth cuts, the blade actually cut the fibres keeping the core nice and tight then it also makes for better tighter fitting joints with only a small amount of sanding may be required.
When you take deeper cuts (because the router will cope with it), you get the ripping effect that occours to the chip board fibres, they pull forwards. making the joint require more sanding, to get the nice tight fit.
The router I use at work is a proper beast, it stands approx 18" tall and weighs alot. makes most routers look and feel tiny, thats able to cut a 40mm worktop in 2 cuts with the type of cutter I use, If I used a standard 2 fluted style cutter and it was long enough, it would be able to do it in 1 cut, but I never would, for the above reasons.
any router will do a veriety of tasks, its a case of making the choice which is best for your budget and suits what you would like to use it for.
If your after one to cut worktop joints then look at 1/2" routers which also take a 1/4" collet, this will give you the best of both worlds, but may in some cases mean the router is large and heavy for delicate work.
If your only going to use it once in a blue moon then cheaper options are fine in my opinion. but if its possibly going to endup being a work horse then better quality is what you will require.
Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 3:54 pm
by buslane
Thanks for all the replies. Been on the Trend site and it has lots of videos and helpful guides. So have been thinking of the T11 covers most of the bases you have all mentioned. Have never used a router before, but intend to use it as much as possible, its about £230. The jigs look great but are very expensive. Any thoughts on this choice ? Steve
Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 4:03 pm
by Teabag
im a great fan of my t9, !Iwill look at the t11 and see whats been updated or removed...
Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 4:42 pm
by Teabag
Looks like they have made it more user friendly for going in a router table... regards adjusting cutter heights.
also, remember a router's uses are restricted to the types of cutters you buy. and 1/2" shank cutters are not cheap. when/if you buy one for worktops, it has to be long enough to pass the jig and worktop. this is the best type for cutting worktops. as you just buy replacment tips. rather than buy new cutters once its blunt. cheaper in the long run.
http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/R ... aight.html
(you can still hire worktop Jig you dont need to buy that).
One thing I will say for smaller work you may want to make or buy a perspex/ply base for T11, these routers have a very large opening in the base plate for large cutters if you wish to use them, and can make it feel unstable on small work. so a thin plate on the base with a smaller hole will make it feel more stable when going around corners.
thats a nice addition to any router tho, and you will see many used in this way on tv or places on the net. youtube is always good for demo vids on routers. and things to do with them.
I would still recomend going to a few shops to handle different routers, feel the differences, hold them on the edge of counters, this is how you will be using them so get one that feels good to you...
some people dont like the power switch on the trend routers, its a push in and down action switch, designed for safety, but have to admit some times its a pain in the ring... as you cant let it go or it shuts off. dont know if they kept this type of switch or not?
Im so used to the works router which is a normal trigger switch with a stay on lock. but I use that every day...
Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 4:53 pm
by buslane
Thanks Teabag, will go to shops tomorrow and have a look. Is there any reason not to get 110v router? just in case I ever go on site. Or is it to heavy for that ?
Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:10 pm
by Teabag
I baught the 110 volt for that very reason, never ended up on site yet... then found out over a year after purchase...
the 110volt version cant be used in a router table, as they cant have the "no volt release switch"
I was under the impression the router was designed for this use... they never made it clear the 110 volt version couldnt be used in this way.
but now you will see they do advertise it next to the price...
Im sure people have used the 110v version in tables, but it wouldnt be safe like the proper method.
(no I've not used mine like it, but it dont take a genius to figure out how to do it).
apart from that, depends if you have the transformer to run it already or thats an extra cost..
Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:43 pm
by Jaeger_S2k
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I agree, the MOF 177 would do the job. Maybe I should have said on the post that the 96 was too small for the job
