It will work. It will have the effect of turning the lightswitch upside down.
Miswired 2-way switches?
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wine~o
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Miswired 2-way switches?
OnlyMe, Do you just swap the permanent and switched live or ???
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Neelix
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OnlyMe
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Miswired 2-way switches?
That would work. Or you can just swap the strappers over in L1 and L2 (assuming Com is labelled as Com)
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Neelix
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Miswired 2-way switches?
I can assure you it won't.
Have tried this on our 2 way switching for our utility
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cjc
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Miswired 2-way switches?
So, when you swapped, assuming you started from the LH table in my original post, can you tell us what you got? Evidently it was not the RH table. Did you get a light which was only on when both switches were down? Or a light which was always on?
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ericmark
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Miswired 2-way switches?
There are three standard ways to wire a two way switch.
1) Power in to com and then connect both n/o (L1) and n/c (L2) to the n/o (L1) and n/c (L2) contacts of other switch and power comes out of the com on the second switch, in practice this means a connector block inside the switch so non preferred method.
2) Power to L1 and power from L2 and connect three wires to L1 on one to L1 on other switch and L2 to L2 and Com to Com, this method is the preferred one as no connector block required.
3) Power in to power in terminal power out from power out terminal on master switch and connect power in to second (slave) switch and also link the S or 1 terminals between the switches, the switches are normally sold as pairs, and only twin and earth required between the two switches.
The other method is to use wireless switching, using either batteries or the power used to switch the switch (Kinetic) I used the former when temporary using the dinning room as a bedroom, the button switch simply stuck to the steel bed, once my wife returned upstairs it was used as a door bell push instead.
Smart switches have a power problem, either energy generated by moving the switch, use of a neutral, or batteries are required, so to get a switch working as two way, can be a problem, we have seen many attempts to get two way to work with less wires, the use of the S or 1 sensing wire I know was used, the only one make I have come across is now discontinued, the other make to use the S or 1 still wants a switched live wire connected. And even the main switch when used without a neutral needs at least a 5 watt load, and has been know to cause a shimmer when switched on, and not switch off fully, and still have a glow, so either you need a neutral at the switch or batteries.
I have used a smart relay for my stairs and landing, as the switch down stairs was the wrong end of the hall, and I now use voice commands. Switches still work, but don't use them.
1) Power in to com and then connect both n/o (L1) and n/c (L2) to the n/o (L1) and n/c (L2) contacts of other switch and power comes out of the com on the second switch, in practice this means a connector block inside the switch so non preferred method.
2) Power to L1 and power from L2 and connect three wires to L1 on one to L1 on other switch and L2 to L2 and Com to Com, this method is the preferred one as no connector block required.
3) Power in to power in terminal power out from power out terminal on master switch and connect power in to second (slave) switch and also link the S or 1 terminals between the switches, the switches are normally sold as pairs, and only twin and earth required between the two switches.
The other method is to use wireless switching, using either batteries or the power used to switch the switch (Kinetic) I used the former when temporary using the dinning room as a bedroom, the button switch simply stuck to the steel bed, once my wife returned upstairs it was used as a door bell push instead.
Smart switches have a power problem, either energy generated by moving the switch, use of a neutral, or batteries are required, so to get a switch working as two way, can be a problem, we have seen many attempts to get two way to work with less wires, the use of the S or 1 sensing wire I know was used, the only one make I have come across is now discontinued, the other make to use the S or 1 still wants a switched live wire connected. And even the main switch when used without a neutral needs at least a 5 watt load, and has been know to cause a shimmer when switched on, and not switch off fully, and still have a glow, so either you need a neutral at the switch or batteries.
I have used a smart relay for my stairs and landing, as the switch down stairs was the wrong end of the hall, and I now use voice commands. Switches still work, but don't use them.
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OnlyMe
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Miswired 2-way switches?
- simplestrapper1.png (27.76 KiB) Viewed 12642 times
LHLS OFF RHLS ON = Light ON
LHSW ON RHLS OFF = Light ON
LHLS OFF RHLS ON = Light OFF
- simplestrapper2.png (27.77 KiB) Viewed 12642 times
LHLS OFF RHLS ON = Light OFF
LHSW ON RHLS OFF = Light OFF
LHLS OFF RHLS ON = Light ON
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OnlyMe
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Miswired 2-way switches?
An error on the state of the switches
Strapper 1 is
LHLS ON RHLS ON = Light OFF
LHLS OFF RHLS ON = Light ON
LHSW ON RHLS OFF = Light ON
LHLS OFF RHLS OFF = Light OFF
and strapper 2 is
LHLS ON RHLS ON = Light ON
LHLS OFF RHLS ON = Light OFF
LHSW ON RHLS OFF = Light OFF
LHLS ON RHLS ON = Light ON
Strapper 1 is
LHLS ON RHLS ON = Light OFF
LHLS OFF RHLS ON = Light ON
LHSW ON RHLS OFF = Light ON
LHLS OFF RHLS OFF = Light OFF
and strapper 2 is
LHLS ON RHLS ON = Light ON
LHLS OFF RHLS ON = Light OFF
LHSW ON RHLS OFF = Light OFF
LHLS ON RHLS ON = Light ON
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OnlyMe
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Miswired 2-way switches?
OnlyMe wrote: ↑Wed Jan 10, 2024 7:35 pm An error on the state of the switches
Strapper 1 is
LHLS ON RHLS ON = Light OFF
LHLS OFF RHLS ON = Light ON
LHSW ON RHLS OFF = Light ON
LHLS OFF RHLS OFF = Light OFF
and strapper 2 is
LHLS ON RHLS ON = Light ON
LHLS OFF RHLS ON = Light OFF
LHSW ON RHLS OFF = Light OFF
LHLS OFF RHLS OFF = Light ON