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wonky windows wrote:i was fitting a kitchen last week and didn't have my curve jig with me. as it was the last job to do in the kitchen i wanted to get it finished so i improvised by clamping two pieces of the kids 'scalectrix' track and used it to guide my router.

lateral thinking our best freind

Evo stick contact adhesive seems to be the way... sometimes the chipboard side seems to absorb the adhesive a bit, not sure if it should need sealing first...

Hitch wrote:Evo stick contact adhesive seems to be the way... sometimes the chipboard side seems to absorb the adhesive a bit, not sure if it should need sealing first...

Okay so everyone is agreed; Evo Stick is the answer.

So I like your idea of sealing the chipboard first Hitch; what would you recommend as a sealer?

That was more of a question... just something ive noticed when doing similar things in the past. Perhaps i just dont put enough on

i would personaly just make shure you have a good even layer on the edge better to slightly over cover as in right to the edge and1mm beyond

you can either give the exposed edge a day before thin even coat off evostic
and glue as iff you dont have porous surfaces

or glue as per porous surface instructions making sure you give full coverage to the face

I've been looking at Evo Stik on the net, mainly on eBay and there are a few; such as:

• Impact
  Time Bond
  528

They all seem to do the job, so which one should I go for?

I use ordinary PVA on the edging. Good coat on both surfaces and then tape on with masking tape in small strips all along the curve. Then leave it for two days.

DWD

evo stick multipurpose contact adhesive is what ive been using on site the past couple of weeks comes in a red can, no need to seal edges just ensure good coating to both surfaces leave to go tacky for a few mins (5-10 dependent on depth of adhesive)

you can also use a spray contact adhesive, which saves spreading the stuff around...

Great thread this one and I love thescalextric bit. On a mounted under stainless sink I knocked up a jig for it then chose a selection of books and ply strips to sink graduated grooves in it. Worked beautifully.

I use only ES contact for laminate ends. half inch straight cutter SHARP ( I have about ten on the go and all trend, and always screw a scrap piece of thin timber to cut into at the end cut to avoid any possibility of break out.

Small plane to reduce then file it medium and fine to get a factory looking finish. Pop the ESCA on, make a brew, do something else, remember my glued w/top and laminate get it stuck, rub gently with a home made pad I made (saves sliced fingers on the laminate cut edge) either plane like I say or nibble with a converted pair of cutters, then file.

Curves I find with a sharp router bit never need sealing (or they aint thus far), must admit I use a trend or a Howdens jig to set curve radius, but I shall remember the scalextric thing

As does happen I was cutting some work top today with the Festool circular saw and the laminate was virtually as good as a router pass.

Mike