www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk

You may as well use them if you already have them! I see SF have changed supplier for their welding stuff lately, so might be suprised

Agree with Hitch. Get an auto helmet. I bought one on offer at the local engineering place when I was buying some steel. Can't remember the make offhand without going to look, but it's a "cheapish decent" :) Spares available etc, and was around the price mentioned.
It's just so much easier to weld with one. Especially if you only do it occasionally. Tends to stop you getting "arc-eye" as well.

Hi,

Well spotted Hitch; yes a slip up with rod numbers but correct 6013 in the immediately following post; I'm losing the plot.

I've been welding this afternoon until the SIP welder died on me having tripped out; it's many years since it did this but I was making it work hard; I'll let it cool overnight and resume welding tomorrow morning. I'm always well covered up whilst in the workshop and have never had problems with wearing the all leather type rigger gloves; I've also been using my hand shield because I've just fitted it with a #10 shade welding lens so can see much better than I can with my automatic helmet whilst welding; it's possible I'm set in my ways after 50 years welding the same way but it works for me.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/impax-e6013-w ... prox/17503

I too have noticed Screwfix 6013 welding rods and these are very cheap; certainly good enough to practice welding with; decent BOC rods on eBay I think are around £17 a box? I've never spent a lot on rods just buying economy boxes.

Kind regards, Col.

Thanks for the link to the rods Col. I didn't realise they did rods at SF, and they're a good price!
As you say having the right shade of lens makes a heck of a difference. I put a lighter one in my headshield some time back. You could hardly see the arc with the old one!
I must say i do still like the auto mask though. A bit of an "eye opener" the first time I used a borrowed one!

Which auto helmet would you recommend?

I've got one similar to this (mine's a 915 which is an earlier one I think.)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XR935H-Parwel ... SwymxVL3PU
They're supposed to be a decent "occasional user" job.

As I said you can get replacement inner and outer protective glass for them. The outer one gets spattered over time.

Dave when you say 'occasional user' why would this be? Would it be because it wouldn't be particularly durable if used regularly or some other reason?

Bigger glass, tougher body, wider range of "shade" so you can have it darker or lighter, when it's "dark" if you get the more professional ones.
As usual, more money equals better. :)
I haven't really used mine all that much, but it's fine for what I do. Like everything if you're doing it day in day out you have the best you can.

We had a couple of cheapy parweld headshields kicking around at work.
I used one for a few days whilst waiting for my new one to arrive. I was impressed on a value for money basis.
Absoloutely fine for lighter work, tacking jobs together, the odd plate on a beam...
But not great for heavy duty use, I used it for an afternoon virtually continuously welding at around 300a on a pulse machine, 15/20mm plate. Pretty hot stuff to be honest.
A few other things like how well the cover lense seals against the cartridge, expensive models will seal well, meaning it will require cleaning less often.

Hi,

You're deafening by your silence Argyll? Have you had chance to try your welder yet; I'm just a bit concerned because many beginners buy welders and quickly leave them alone thinking they will never learn welding.

I've been very busy with steel work; cutting; drilling; welding and fettling. Yesterday and today I've been concentrating on making the five 50mm x 50mm railing posts I need which has taken a lot of time and effort. Yesterday afternoon I needed some 50mm x 3mm flat bar stock to seal the post ends so I had a trip out in the Yeti armed with cash. Crown Motors to buy a replacement fuse for the Yeti; Screwfix to buy welding rods (electrodes) and set screws; K Steels and finally Schofields scrapyard at the top of the world. The only thing I didn't get was the 50mm bar which is typical of my luck; hundreds of tons of scrap and no flat bar stock.

Not to be beaten; back home I pulled out 3mm thick plate and set about this with the jigsaw cutting the ten pieces I needed; I thought I'd try the easy way first but ended up obtaining the pieces I needed the harder way. The top of each post is steeply angled to allow rain run off and to give finger clearance for the handrail but the bottoms remain square.

My stock of 6013 rods (electrodes) was starting to run down hence I visited Screwfix curious as to what quality their rods were given the very low bargain price. When the rods were handed over I was immediately very impressed by the robust plastic box and thought if the rods are as excellent as the box I'll be well pleased. I've used a few of these Screwfix rods this afternoon and can confirm that for the money they are indeed excellent; they 'strike' better than the dearer rods I've been using and I could back the power off as well; the slag doesn't release quite as easily but this certainly is only nit picking; I'm happy to recommend Screwfix rods and the pictures show mixed welds of both types of rod I've used. Screwfix # 17503 £8.99; a bargain so grab them.

I've been welding for over 50 years so obviously find welding to be easy but looking back at my apprenticeship days I never had much difficulty in putting my first welds down either gas (oxy acetylene) or arc; all the other apprentices in the training centre also picked up welding in short time; I think it fair to say that all novice arc welders are timid at first especially once the arc strikes and the welder buzzes meaning business; once the first welding bead is run then it's just a case of experimenting with angles and amps; some welds are a lot easier than others to do but again practice soon teaches best method to adopt; OK so at first you blow a hole in the metal being welded but with practice this will seldom happen and if it does then you've got a welder so fill the hole in.

The pictures below show assorted welds; end caps fully welded; mounting lugs in a number of positions; apart from cutting the metal once welding is mastered it's a sight easier than chopping out a mortice and tenon joint in timber; I use anything to hand to temporarily position welding joints until the joint is "tacked" then after knocking off the slag from the tacks the joint can be fully welded in a few seconds; even an untidy joint which looks rough can be made presentable with an angle grinder; I didn't fuss with all the welded joints shown I simply welded and after chipping the slag went over with the angle grinder; once painted everything will look very good indeed. The next to last picture shows a typical weld and the last picture shows a bit of channel iron being used as a weight allowing the mounting lug to be tacked. My SIP 140A welder is typical of all such welders and like yours Argyll will produce similar welds to mine so my welder isn't special and the welding rods are the rods anyone can buy; the only difference perhaps is I've had practice but even the practice period is quite short.

Arc welding can be dangerous but no worse than many operations carried out in a workshop; I'll never be without a welding machine and a cheap 140A arc welder will do just about all the general welding in a home workshop regarding welding steel. The new railings and posts have only cost £84 for the steel but what would these have cost to have made professionally; the savings on this job alone will easily pay for a welding machine. I'm all for encouraging welding and sorry Argyll if I've hijacked your thread but whilst I'm in the middle of this railings project I thought I'd add some details to encourage others to have a go at welding.

Kind regards, Col.

Hi,

I can't remember the last time the sun stopped me working outside but it has stopped me this afternoon; this is extremely rare but I'm not complaining in fact I wish every day would be like today.

What a relief it is to have now installed the three railing sections and four posts with everything fitting perfectly; this is the result of making jigs removing lots of individual measuring; of course if a mistake is made in making the jig and not spotted then this mistake is duplicated; I also like to use "story sticks" measuring as little as possible. Tomorrow morning I'll install the end section and final post then I'll take it all down and do a decent paint job in the garage before installing it proper; an handrail will be fitted at the top.

It's amazing what can be made using a welder and few tools are needed; I have decent kit so like using it; this is more industrial than DIY but goes to show what can be done in a home workshop whilst improving a home and saving a great deal of money. I'm looking forward to Argyll getting stuck into some welding.

Kind regards, Col.

Hi,

What a climate; yesterday I couldn't work due to the fierce heat and brilliant sunshine having to knock off; I left the steelwork in position so my pet cloud Blackie was just waiting and sure enough it's now bucketing down with rain on the bare metal; perhaps I should have used stainless steel?

Out of interest and on topic for a change I wondered what "Duty cycle" was regarding welding machines? It's only recently whilst looking at assorted welders I've noticed duty cycle which seems to vary a great deal; I was brought up with very heavy industrial oil filled transformer welders which would work year in year out without cutting out even whilst welding heavy plate. So I had a web browse for welding duty cycle information;



I've been pushing my SIP 140A transformer welder to its limit on my current project and it cut out; I think it welded equivalent of around 40" bead at 110A before quitting on me which actually isn't bad to say it's not an industrial welder and a 40" bead is a good run; I was welding 20mm square tubing in short 20mm but quick bursts the tubing being set up in a jig. I carried on with other work whilst the welder cooled which took ages.

There is a lot of discussion on the web about welding duty cycle and I'm still unclear as to how to judge the duty cycle; on one welding forum it was confusing because in reality what is say 30% duty cycle when left open ended; is it 30% of ten minutes or 30% of one hour which was discussed; to be certain I think the safest and most reliable way to gain correct information is to ask the manufacturer of the welding machine being used.

I like to keep things simple and my welding is mostly mild steel of 3mm thick upwards although I have welded much thinner. I enjoy welding and am looking at upgrading my welder; the SIP is a very good machine for hobby use but I don't like to run any machine to its cut off so I'm interested in buying a welder that will weld 100% at say 120A. Inverter welders are now taking over these being solid state welders and not transformer welders; once again whilst welding heat builds up in the welder being used; inverter welders have their electronic components sited on heat sinks to dissipate the heat; transformer welders like mine simply heat up and then when too hot cut out; some transformer welders have fans included allowing longer welding periods. I've never used MIG or TIG welders so all I need is an arc (stick) welder without frills but which will weld continuously without cutting out. I've narrowed my choice down to Oxford type welders which are oil cooled and there are plenty readily available; other makes are also available so it's a case of waiting for one to come up for sale at this side of the planet. I'm a dinosaur and don't trust electronics which can be temperamental and fickle whilst being expensive to repair; transformers I understand so better the devil I know. Oxfords can be run from single or three phase and they are available in lots of sizes. My current SIP is stored in it's original box making it a pain to set up for welding; I could make a wheeled trolley but I really want a more industrial type of welder on wheels then it's always ready to weld. My SIP does all I need but I just like my toys and the bigger the toy the better.

It would be interesting to learn from other members who have experience of MIG and TIG welding as to the benefits of each type; the information would sit well on this thread.

I've rambled on enough so time to do something useful.

Kind regards, Col.

If you want a good duty cycle on a budget, you need to look at used oil cooled sets like you mention, Pickhill, Oxford, TIC etc.
The downside to these is the weight. I had a small oil cooled, must have weighted 60kg+ Not exactly portable.
The inverters are much nicer to use, and much more portable. High duty cycles are achievable with the electronic gear, most of the gear at work is at least 80% a 40degsC


One of the main benefits of MIG over MMA is speed. Much more cost effective per metre.

TIG, you wouldnt use TIG for most of the jobs you use MMA/MIG for. Tig is a much finer process with more control.

There is an overlap between them all though, theoretically you could TIG weld end plates on a Rafter beam, but would be incredibly slow and not cost effective. You'd use MIG.

You could MIG weld corners up on a stainless tray for a food factory, but it wouldn't be as neat and more post weld treatment required. You'd use TIG

You could use MIG on site to weld a few cleats on a beam, but dragging the cylinder across the site and trying to shield the gas from the wind would be a pain, you'd use MMA.

On a side note, whats the spacings on the infill on that railing, look a bit on the large side?

Hi,

Thanks for the useful information Hitch.

Thanks for asking Hitch; the spacings on the railings are 7" o/c the same as the original railings on all our homes along the street. I've been painting the posts and railings inside the garage today; Zinsser primer then Little Greene undercoat. Tomorrow I'll apply a gloss of Little Green then erect the posts and railings before finishing off with correct colour Benjamin Moore. I'm using leftover paint for base coats rather than throw it away after all I'm tight.

Because I'm using hollow section steel I want to seal every end to prevent ingress of water; the posts have welded caps both top and bottom but the horizontal railing bars needed sealing and with sixteen of these open ends I didn't fancy spending forever welding caps on; this morning I measured the hollow and allowing a bit extra for friction fit cut on the bandsaw oak plugs; these in turn were slightly tapered at one end on my home made 4" belt sander then hammered in but not full in; I then trimmed using the hacksaw then punched them to form a slight recess to accept plenty of paint to seal them; the drill was run through so the oak plugs will also be trapped by the railing set screws. I want to do the best job possible ensuring there will be no bare steel to attract rust.

Out of interest I watched a professional painter a week ago painting wrought iron railings directly across the street; the railings are the same style as mine but solid 1/2" bar is used; he was using a brush and it took him hours in hot sunshine to complete the task. Whilst giving our front room a comprehensive makeover a few months ago I bought 2" long foam rollers plus correct handle; with a 4" tray lined with heavy duty foil I used the tray and roller and made easy quick work of the painting. I knocked up a temporary rack in the vice to hold the five posts after painting hanging the posts on "S" hooks; the railings being more cumbersome were painted and rested against the bench.

I hope I'm not wandering off topic but I thought I'd add the follow on story which is associated with the welding I've been doing and to demonstrate the kind of job that can be done once a welder is owned and used to enhance a home for little cost. I'm so interested in this decking project that the time flies buy at an alarming rate; our neighbours are also interested watching my daily progress; I just love pottering around doing something useful without spending a fortune; our neighbours "get someone in" although two of our neighbours have a go at DIY but on a more limited scale; it's possible I tire them out.

I keep looking at the oil filled welders but it appears there are no ex-welders in or near Huddersfield; Tipton and Staines are two places with welders for sale but as usual the other end of the planet from us; there is one in Bingley not too far distant but at the asking price of £235 I'm too tight to pay this knowing I could buy a brand new inverter welder for less; these old oil cooled welders are excellent bits of kit and I'd like one but they are being replaced these days buy inverter type welders which are quite cheap; have long duty cycles and are very light; I would however prefer an oil cooled welder over modern electronics but then I was brought up on old welders and like them they being proved reliable for over 50 years. I always find welding to be fascinating; being able to fasten lumps of metal together with so little effort; unlike a wooden joint a welded joint won't shrink of work loose with a broken glue line but obviously wood and metal are very different materials demanding different kit and and working techniques I enjoy both wood and metalwork.

Kind regards, Col.

Hi,

I've just been looking at inverter type arc welders on eBay and watched this YouTube video;



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KD843-250A-We ... 33b7bd8e3c

At £129.99 for the basic inverter 250A welder it's a real bargain and with a duty cycle of 60% at 250A it will have an 100% duty cycle at say 140A? I feel tempted to buy one of these but looking at the details; hot start; anti stick and arc force do these actually really work; the above video possible says no because my ancient transformer welder without all the electronic extras will stick at striking just like it sticks in the video? I'm wary of much of the modern electronic stuff finding it hard to trust it. I'm not in a panic to upgrade my SIP 140A welder but I think I'll end up buying an oil cooled Oxford or similar welder which is a tried and trusted welder over many years. Just my own thoughts and I confess I've never tried using an inverter type welder. The more complicated things become the more unreliable they become.

Kind regards, Col.