push fit connectors enclosure box
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push fit connectors enclosure box
I've come to replace some downlights with firesafe ones.I have the downlight wired up successfully into the push-fit connectors, but its very tricky getting the cable to pass through the enclosure box (tight holes, stiff cable, etc). Can the brown/blue/green& yellow cables show outside the box, or does the grey outer have to be the only thing visible? Are there any tricks to this?
I know the earth sleeve is tatty, and yes there are two earth cables in one sleeve, but that is how the kitchen fitter left it. Once i know these downlights fit, and i can connect them i'll get some sleeving and sort out the earths.
I know the earth sleeve is tatty, and yes there are two earth cables in one sleeve, but that is how the kitchen fitter left it. Once i know these downlights fit, and i can connect them i'll get some sleeving and sort out the earths.
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push fit connectors enclosure box
i wonder if these are just cheap/badly designed enclosures, and i should get some wagos or something?
- Someone-Else
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push fit connectors enclosure box
Your incoming cables are too long, as when the enclosure is closed you should only be able to see sheath not the cores, but as it was installed by a kitchen fitter............ they seem to be of the opinion "well it works, doesn't it" so yes, by all means change them to wagos and wago boxes.
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Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
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Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
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push fit connectors enclosure box
Thanks. I've actually just fitted a new downlight, which came with these push fit connectors, and enclosures. The wires are as i found them though (there was a choc block and some green&yellow tape!). I'll shorten the cable see if it helps, if not i'll try wago boxes.Someone-Else wrote: ↑Sun Feb 28, 2021 9:40 am Your incoming cables are too long, as when the enclosure is closed you should only be able to see sheath not the cores, but as it was installed by a kitchen fitter............ they seem to be of the opinion "well it works, doesn't it" so yes, by all means change them to wagos and wago boxes.
- Someone-Else
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push fit connectors enclosure box
TBH I do not know how i did before the wago was invented.
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
- kellys_eye
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push fit connectors enclosure box
Those connection boxes are for PVC coated flex cable - note the strain relief (inverted 'V' to trap the soft outer sheath) - not for 'hard' or non-round cables.
Don't take it personally......
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push fit connectors enclosure box
Hmmm ... so have they supplied connection boxes with the downlights not suited to the intended purpose - ie. wont downlights always (or often) be connected to hard cables for lighting circuits?kellys_eye wrote: ↑Sun Feb 28, 2021 12:25 pm Those connection boxes are for PVC coated flex cable - note the strain relief (inverted 'V' to trap the soft outer sheath) - not for 'hard' or non-round cables.
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push fit connectors enclosure box
Not necessarily. The lights may (and often are) connected via lighting transformers whose INPUT is via the usual t&e but the output is via flex.
Don't take it personally......
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push fit connectors enclosure box
Aah ok. Can you recommend a suitable enclosure box for this situation? I'd like to use the connector blocks that came with the lights as they are pre-wired. These look ok, presuming the connector block would fit inside...kellys_eye wrote: ↑Sun Feb 28, 2021 1:06 pm Not necessarily. The lights may (and often are) connected via lighting transformers whose INPUT is via the usual t&e but the output is via flex.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/wagobox-junction-box/8423f
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push fit connectors enclosure box
Wago box worked a treat... not yet connected up the grey t&e but looks hopeful...
- ericmark
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push fit connectors enclosure box
How old are you? I was using maintenance free connectors back in 1980 in Algeria. But the Ashley-Hager J501 is clearly made for lighting with cable clamps.Someone-Else wrote: ↑Sun Feb 28, 2021 10:07 am TBH I do not know how i did before the wago was invented.
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push fit connectors enclosure box
Turns out the white piano key connector itself only works with stranded cable, not solid. so the lights and the wago boxes are going back! ive ordered new lights that work with solid .... the saga continues!hiace_drifter wrote: ↑Tue Mar 02, 2021 7:49 am Wago box worked a treat... not yet connected up the grey t&e but looks hopeful...
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