I am adding a new security floodlight to my garage the old light had 4 connections ( live ) ( neutral) (Earth) ( switched live). I could switch this permanently on from a switch inside garage or otherwise would switch using PIR sensor
See photo
IMG_20210703_103248987.jpg (377.12 KiB) Viewed 1886 times
I now need to swap this out but the new LED security light has 3 connections (live) (neural). (earth)
See photo
IMG_20210703_215758755.jpg (307.04 KiB) Viewed 1886 times
How can I wire this using the old wiring ? And using the switch to overide the PIR
Londontrolleyproject, Since none of us installed your original light it is not possible for any of us to give you a definitive answer, as believe it or not there is no regulation or rule that says what colour must be used for what. However we can always make an educated guess, so here goes.
The existing light, does it's connector strip have any markings? or is there an insert with markings?
My guess is that grey is neutral, brown is permanent live, and black is switched live.
As for overriding the PIR on your new light, I suggest you read the instructions, as some have an inbuilt override facility, based on switching it off and on.
If it does not have an override facility there is nothing you can do about it, since it would mean taking it apart and changing a cable, getting it right first time and then trying to put it back together again, which is why I always recommend a separate light and PIR
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Londontrolleyproject wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 6:21 amBut this mean turning of the breaker
Why not install a switch in series? Then you could switch it on/off at ease.
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Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
It will be the light feed you switch* the new light has no switched live.
*Which ever colour it is.
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
Whilst the advice given by S-E is correct in principle, I don't think it will work as you anticipate in practice.
Faced with this sort of issue in the past, I personally would not (have not) been averse to opening the white compartment where the feed cable goes and modifying it to do what you want, not sure OP is capable of that.
With this type of fitting, when you power on the light comes on for a minute or two while the sensor resets, even in daylight, then it will go off - until the sensor is triggered. Simply cutting the feed via a switch will kill it totally, restoring power by switching on will only give light until sensor resets, then it will go off. Not the permanent override you're looking for.
Either accept that you've bought a fitting that doesn't do what you want, or return it and get one that does (3 core & earth to four terminal block).
Aforementioned separate sensor with conventional fitting will do it, but still needs correct wiring with override switch.
arco_iris wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 8:27 pmWhilst the advice given by S-E is correct in principle, I don't think it will work as you anticipate in practice.................Simply cutting the feed via a switch will kill it totally, restoring power by switching on will only give light until sensor resets, then it will go off
It should work, the OP read the instructions and it says
Londontrolleyproject wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 6:21 am The light comes with a pir override facility if you turn the power off/on/off/on this will turn the light into a normal light.
It is quite common for PIR/Lights to do that now. (Doesn't mean that I like them though)
I found a YT vid showing an override switch working. (Ok, not same brand, but same principal)
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
arco_iris wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 8:27 pm
Faced with this sort of issue in the past, I personally would not (have not) been averse to opening the white compartment where the feed cable goes and modifying it to do what you want, not sure OP is capable of that.
Ditto. I would have found the output from the PIR and fed it back to a relay that feeds to the 2nd floodlight. A relay being necessary as the output from the PIR may not support the extra load imposed by an additional lamp.
Grumps wrote: ↑Mon Jul 05, 2021 7:58 pmDitto. I would have found the output from the PIR and fed it back to a relay that feeds to the 2nd floodlight. A relay being necessary as the output from the PIR may not support the extra load imposed by an additional lamp.
...............er, what 2nd floodlight?
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
Grumps wrote: ↑Mon Jul 05, 2021 8:16 pmIn my defense, the OP wrote,
I am adding a new security floodlight to my garage
My emphasis.
By inference, the 'new security floodlight' then becomes an 'addition' rather than a 'replacement'.
True, but under the picture he wrote
Londontrolleyproject wrote: ↑Sat Jul 03, 2021 8:58 pmI now need to swap this out but the new LED security light has 3 connections (live) (neural). (earth)
Grumps, I often find on forums folk will type the wrong adjective (Not to mention the wrong spelling) no worries.
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.