New Radiator Heating Element
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New Radiator Heating Element
hello,
I am replacing a heated towel rail and I want to upgrade it with a higher watt of heating element (from 150w to 400w). Can i just upgrade the element and rewire in to the fused spur? Is there anything different I need to do for the higher wattage?
Thank you
I am replacing a heated towel rail and I want to upgrade it with a higher watt of heating element (from 150w to 400w). Can i just upgrade the element and rewire in to the fused spur? Is there anything different I need to do for the higher wattage?
Thank you
- Someone-Else
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New Radiator Heating Element
Yes, check with the manufacture of the radiator is what you want to do safe?
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Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
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Is that a yes I can do it or yes I need to do something else for the higher wattage?Someone-Else wrote: ↑Sun Nov 20, 2022 4:28 pm Yes, check with the manufacture of the radiator is what you want to do safe?
- big-all
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New Radiator Heating Element
not sure it will work unless the radiator has extra physical heat output
as in element heat the fluid to a preset level then cuts out so 3x the input means it gets there quicker but gives the same output as it clicks in and out between the upper and lower settings so means the total output may be very close to the 150w output regardless off input unless as i say the ability to dissipate more heat
as in element heat the fluid to a preset level then cuts out so 3x the input means it gets there quicker but gives the same output as it clicks in and out between the upper and lower settings so means the total output may be very close to the 150w output regardless off input unless as i say the ability to dissipate more heat
we are all ------------------still learning
- Someone-Else
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New Radiator Heating Element
I would check with the manufacture of the radiator is what you want to do safe, as big-all points out, you may just end up making it get to the set temperature quicker.
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
- aeromech3
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No, no, no, as you have stated the element is wired to a FCU and you don't state it is thermostatically controlled or otherwise, then a higher wattage element will not only be physically longer but without a control thermostat will undoubtedly boil the fluid within the rad.
Electrically heated rads have a matched surface area to heating element power, when no controller is fitted.
Electrically heated rads have a matched surface area to heating element power, when no controller is fitted.
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New Radiator Heating Element
The towel rail I have bought has:
BTU output: 1,692
Watt Output: 496
And yes I will be putting a thermostatically controlled element on.
Does this help?
BTU output: 1,692
Watt Output: 496
And yes I will be putting a thermostatically controlled element on.
Does this help?
- aeromech3
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Yes that seems to answer the question of radiator suitability for me. If filling yourself, follow manufacturers instructions, I put a weak solution of car anti-freeze which has a rust inhibitor and leave a small space for expansion, just saying.
- aeromech3
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Yes, but remember location, hot towel rail, in my Sis guest shower room I bent over the sink and scolded my bum on the boiler fed large rail, despite the TRV being set low.
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I apologise for laughing!! Yes good advice
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One more question regarding your point above about antifreeze - in my previous properties I always used Everbuild P11 Central Heating System Inhibitor - is that ok to use here? I also have a mix of rads upstairs and UHF downstairs so equally is that ok to use?
Thanks again
Thanks again
- aeromech3
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No problem with that, just a cost basis, not sure what temperature range is P11, but car stuff good up to boiling point, however unlikely your bathroom will reach freezing
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Is this a dual fuel rad or all electric?liamus wrote: ↑Wed Nov 23, 2022 11:15 am One more question regarding your point above about antifreeze - in my previous properties I always used Everbuild P11 Central Heating System Inhibitor - is that ok to use here? I also have a mix of rads upstairs and UHF downstairs so equally is that ok to use?
Thanks again