I have a slight quandary - similar to the one I had with the patchy coving I described in a previous post. I'm decorating our hallway, most of which is newly plastered. I'll be using Tikkurila Optiva 5 so, per previous advice on here and advice from Tikkurila themselves, I've primed the walls with Optiva Primer in white. Similarly to my coving, because you look at the walls at a very oblique angle, if there's any sunlight coming through the front door you see every imperfection in walls. These imperfections are the result of rollering the Optiva Primer - and are entirely my fault - but I don't know exactly what I've done wrong. The imperfections I see are actually because of different textures in the primer, and they're vertical so are definitely something to do with my rollering technique. Some parts are smooth-ish but others have a rollered texture so they reflect light differently.
I suspect that a couple of things are happening. Firstly, I'm not loading enough paint onto the roller (basically I think I'm mean so see it as wasting paint!) and I have a tendency to try and make it go too far. Secondly, Optiva Primer on bare plaster dries pretty quickly so you can't really roller over parts you've already done - I suspect that it's when you back roll on Primer that's already drying (even if it's only a few seconds ago) that's what creates the more textured parts.
So, now that I'm in this situation, what's best to do. I'm afraid that if I apply Optiva 5 on top it's going to show the texture in the primer i.e. it's going to look as bad. I've taken a light sandpaper (180 grit) and tried to even out the textures. It's helped a little but it's made the smooth parts even smoother and the textured parts slightly less textured - don't know if that's a good thing.
Going forward, I think I'm going to need to be more generous in loading my roller and try and avoid spreading too far. I've watched plenty of youtube videos and they all seem to soak their rollers.
But is there anything I can do for my current situation? Would you sand everything smooth and re-apply primer, while trying to achieve even coverage without varying texture? Or give it another coat of Primer? Or would you just apply Optiva 5 generously and hope it hides the existing imperfections?
BTW, I've seen other examples on the internet (with photos, so I know they're exactly the same issue) where DIYers have had the same problem. One said a professional fixed it with one coat in one hour!
Patchy Hallway After Primer
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Patchy Hallway After Primer
I should update my own question. I think I've learned not to be so frugal with paint. The first coat of Optiva 5 looked a bit rough and didn't really hide the imperfections in the primer coat. For the second coat I made a point of using a lot of paint, more than I've ever put on a roller before, and made frequent trips back to the scuttle. The surface is now much better - good enough for me by the time I hang a mirror and maybe some photo frames! A third coat would probably make it even better but I'm going to leave as is.
As for the Optiva primer on new plaster, I think in future I would dilute the first coat and, again, use plenty of primer and not over-roll. Well, you live and learn I suppose.
As for the Optiva primer on new plaster, I think in future I would dilute the first coat and, again, use plenty of primer and not over-roll. Well, you live and learn I suppose.
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Patchy Hallway After Primer
I always use a mist-coat on new plaster and new coving, usually watered-down Tikkurila Anti-Reflex 2 as it gives a terrific surface for the following coats, whatever they are.
The danger of using "plenty of primer" and "not over-roll" is that you may end up with differing textures on the surface. It's not difficult to get a decent finish with just a little practice. You can learn a lot from a lady decorator called Joanne Hay. She does some excellent videos so, if you're on Facebook, Instagram, or TikTok, have a look at her videos.
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Patchy Hallway After Primer
Thanks. Differing textures is definitely something I'll be trying to avoid in future. I normally watch the two brothers (they don't give their names but they're from up North) on YouTube but I'll check her out.Tom d'Angler wrote: ↑Fri May 12, 2023 1:43 pmI always use a mist-coat on new plaster and new coving, usually watered-down Tikkurila Anti-Reflex 2 as it gives a terrific surface for the following coats, whatever they are.
The danger of using "plenty of primer" and "not over-roll" is that you may end up with differing textures on the surface. It's not difficult to get a decent finish with just a little practice. You can learn a lot from a lady decorator called Joanne Hay. She does some excellent videos so, if you're on Facebook, Instagram, or TikTok, have a look at her videos.
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Patchy Hallway After Primer
Hi,
I've used recently used Tikarilla Optiva Primer instead of mist coating. I found that it went on thick in some places and thin in others. I had to do loads of sanding with some 120 grit sandpaper to sort it out. If I ever use it again I think I will water it down by at least 10% because it's way too thick in my opinion, and as you've said it also drys quickly (maybe water will slow it down a bit).
I also think my issue was partly caused by using one of those cheap steep sided paint scuttles. I found I was unable to get paint on my roller correctly. The paint all seemed to be on one side of the roller because it wouldn't turn against the steep sides of the paint scuttle and using more pressure would nearly tip over the paint scuttle. It may have just been my technique or something. However I've since upgraded to a 14" Wooster Sherock bucket/tray and I've found loading my roller a far easier and far quicker process because it has a nice big flattish area for loading your roller correctly.
Good luck sorting out your issues.
I've used recently used Tikarilla Optiva Primer instead of mist coating. I found that it went on thick in some places and thin in others. I had to do loads of sanding with some 120 grit sandpaper to sort it out. If I ever use it again I think I will water it down by at least 10% because it's way too thick in my opinion, and as you've said it also drys quickly (maybe water will slow it down a bit).
I also think my issue was partly caused by using one of those cheap steep sided paint scuttles. I found I was unable to get paint on my roller correctly. The paint all seemed to be on one side of the roller because it wouldn't turn against the steep sides of the paint scuttle and using more pressure would nearly tip over the paint scuttle. It may have just been my technique or something. However I've since upgraded to a 14" Wooster Sherock bucket/tray and I've found loading my roller a far easier and far quicker process because it has a nice big flattish area for loading your roller correctly.
Good luck sorting out your issues.
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