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I'm getting a new light installed and the faceplate that I'd like the electrician to use will probably not take another t+e cable.

The electrician is planning to install the switch in a less convenient location for me (but easier to install).

Would it be okay for the t+e for this light to be brought to a junction box above my preferred faceplate and a switched live single taken from the faceplate up the conduit drop and connected to the light Live in the t+e. Intercept the t+e for the faceplate and link the neutral and earth there.
So basically only have the live going into the conduit - which there will be space for.

Hopefully my description makes sense.

A sketch May help

Okay.
PIR light needs to be replaced. It is currently on the same switch as some soffit lights - so I can't leave the PIR light on without having the soffit lights on. Which is no use.

I want to break out the PIR light into it's own switch.

The faceplate has a spare switch but is very tight for space to run another 1.5mm2 t+e down. See pic below. I was wondering if he could drop a brown 1.5mm2 single and use it as L' for the PIR light like the sketch below: Or is there another way to break out the PIR light and switch the soffit lights and pir light independently?

Hope this makes a bit more sense.

A PIR will need 4 wires L, N, E, switch live

run power to the PIR, sw live from the switch as you already have power

you can repurpose the existing wiring, no need to run any wires

What do the 5 switches do? What is the brown wire with the white tape ?

The PIR is part of the light so I just feed it with L, N + E.
1x internal room light
1x external door down lights
2x external pir security lights
1x soffit lights and PIR security light

I've no idea what the brown with the tab is for or how to check what circuit it is part of.

A floodlight with pir will have L, N, E permanent live and a switch live for a manual override, find out what is wired into the light

Bob225 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 14, 2024 4:14 pmA floodlight with pir will have L, N, E permanent live and a switch live for a manual override

Sorry to not agree. It was true many moons ago, but most PIR/Light combos you can make the light stay on by switching it off/on within 5 seconds. Switch it off for 10 seconds then back on again it will revert to PIR control. So an override wire is not required.

Father Ted wrote: ↑Sat Oct 12, 2024 3:40 pmI've no idea what the brown with the tab is for or how to check what circuit it is part of.

Follow it, test it or deduce where it probably goes. Then confirm by testing it. (Yes, it is easier said than done, but you did ask.)

Father Ted wrote: ↑Thu Oct 10, 2024 9:58 am The electrician is planning to install the switch in a less convenient location for me (but easier to install).

As an electrician, I would not take kindly to someone asking on a forum how I should wire lights. There are many options, including smart bulbs, smart switches, and smart relays, and even bulbs with PIR built in, the big thing is price, this will vary depending on what you already have.

I have a TP-Link smart switch powering my PIR outside lamp, need a switch which uses either a neutral or battery, TP-Link (Tapo) use a battery.

Personally, I don't want to light the way for intruders, prefer for them to trip over the lawn mower or walk off the edge of the path, but I do light the way for the milkman.