Changing light switches & plug sockets

[Beav]

Hi guys,

has anyone replaced light switches/plug sockets and even swapped single plug sockets for double ones?

I have done quite a bit of DIY and watched many YT videos (From reputable channels) on this but I do read on some websites it has to be checked by a qualified electrician? In that case by the time you've called one out, you may as well just pay them to do the work?

[Someone-Else]

Don't know what you have been looking at. Yes you can change a light switch, light fitting, single socket to a double socket without calling on an electrician (as well as many other things)

[ericmark]

Someone who works with electric, is called an electrician, there are a host of exams, and organisation one can take or belong to, I was at one point a member of the IET, and domestic electricians are often a member of a scheme. But if you renew a socket, you are an electrician.

So if I want to renew a socket, I start by testing, last thing I want is after I have fitted it, to find there is a fault which will stop me from turning it on again, so I start by plugging in my loop impedance tester, and checking the line - neutral and line - earth, and that the RCD will trip. Should check the insulation resistance and/or earth leakage too, but there is no NEED to check first, but saves embarrassment of after doing the work, saying sorry also need to do XYZ.

Once complete again it is tested, even as an electrician of many years, I can still make mistakes, and the loop tester simply plugs in, and you press the button, so daft not to test. Can see not doing the insulation test a second time, but again earth leakage for whole home is easy, just clip the clamps around the incoming tails, so easy daft not to test.

I should enter the details onto the schedule of test results, free download from IET, but often don't bother, however for the DIY man, filling in the form, prompts one to do the required tests.

Lights are not so easy, however as long as not using metal fittings, it is unlikely you could leave anything more dangerous than when you started, yes there are crock clips on the meter, and I could test, but the walking back and to switch to consumer unit, specially since it is in the flat, means I often do simply take a chance, at least with my own house, although not someone else, as with someone else's home, I need to raise the minors works certificate, so need to test to get the results to enter.

Would I do the job without the meter, yes I would, but I have done it that many times, unlikely to make an error. A plug in tester varies hugely in price, without the loop test, dirt cheap, with loop test start at around £30, but they are often not designed for ring finals, and will pass at 1.7 ohms when needs to be 1.38 ohms or less, to get one to test a ring final, with cost at least £70, from a wholesale outlet on the street, more like £300, the insulation tester has dropped in price, cheapest around £20, the clamp on ammeter to measure earth leakage around £35 there are cheaper clamp on meters but they tend not to measure 1 mA.

But of course you could just take a chance, no one forces you to test and inspect.

[ericmark]

P.S. I use a cheap tester, the Habotest HT5910, the Martindale VT12 Two Pole Voltage and Continuity Tester is a good tester for the pro wanting to prove dead, but grossly overpriced for DIY

[Beav]

P.S. I use a cheap tester, the Habotest HT5910, the Martindale VT12 Two Pole Voltage and Continuity Tester is a good tester for the pro wanting to prove dead, but grossly overpriced for DIY

Thank you. I did order a mains plug in tester a few days ago with an insulated screwdriver set :)

[Someone-Else]

You do not need insulated screwdrivers, you do however need a 2 probe tester, why? To prove what you are going to be working on is dead. When it is dead, there is no need for an insulated screwdriver. Socket testers are no use for testing lighting. Just saying.

[Beav]

You do not need insulated screwdrivers, you do however need a 2 probe tester, why? To prove what you are going to be working on is dead. When it is dead, there is no need for an insulated screwdriver. Socket testers are no use for testing lighting. Just saying.

Can you use a multi meter? I was thinking any doubts just flick the whole of the electric off.

Probably not due to the high voltage?

[Someone-Else]

Most multi meters are designed to be used on electronics. There is also the leads DMM's have, they are often cheap thin and not rated for 240v.
Also the tips of the leads are too exposed, which means you can short them to something you shouldn't. The other thing is the DMM's internal fuse, cheap DMM's have a cheap fuse with no protection, which in short means there is the possibility of if it goes wrong the meter exploding. (Only wish I was joking, but I am not.)
You can get a DMM for as little as £9, but if you make a mistake, you will wish you had spent wisely and bought a decent meter Circa £100, but you can get a 2 probe, safe mains tester for less than £50.

You can

just flick the whole of the electric off

but how do you know its dead? might have solar or fed from somewhere else, that is why you should always prove dead before you are.





(DMM- Digital Multi Meter)

[ericmark]

I tend to use the one meter for all,

Diffrence line neutral 8 Feb 24 reduced.jpg (9.73 KiB) Viewed 165 times

in theory I should not use it to prove for dead, as it has an off switch, and needs a battery, so could be switched off, or the battery could be flat, and even the meter used to test for dead should be itself tested to a proving unit which must test it at 50 volts or less, and most test at 400 volts, which is pointless, as it could well light it all the test lights at 400 volts, but one needs to be sure it will show any voltage over 50 volts.

So in the real world a multi-meter with GS38 leads which by accident can't be switched to a short circuit (amps range) is by most regarded as good enough, and the one shown has a non-contact volts (NCV) function so you can check a socket or switch is likely dead before you remove any screws. Once removed, you will clearly re-test the leads, but you are reasonably sure nothing is live before you even start removing the screws.

It also allows you before disconnection to measure the amps in the neutral, so unlikely to be caught out by a borrowed neutral, and the clamp on function can also be used to check what the earth leakage is, which is what was being tested in the picture, and even any DC leakage, although I will admit a bit hit and miss measuring 6 mA DC as it needs to be zeroed with DC amps.

But the best thing, was it only cost me £35 new, and the leads it came with were GS38.

I do also have a RCD and loop impedance tester, and an insulation tester (cost £70 and £35) and still use my neon screwdriver even when the clamp on should detect a borrowed neutral, no harm having a second string to one's bow, but I carry my clamp on in my pocket, the other meters I only get out to complete paperwork in the main. Yes I do have a Martindale neon tester, have not used it in years, as too limited as to what it can test.