Fire proof door fitting

scottfw · Post by **scottfw** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 7:19 pm

Can anyone give me a rough price for supply and fitting a fire proof door for a house? I need to have 8 put into a house but am completely unsure of what price I should be paying. I live in North Wales so no London price

Cheers

Also - what is involved in them being fitted? New door casings needed?

joiner_uk · Post by **joiner_uk** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 9:09 am

To have a fire door fitted it will have to be fitted to a fire door frame.
These frames have larger rebaits for a fire door

Are they internal doors?

Do you need all the frames fitting also?

I assume the doors are all internal?

scottfw · Post by **scottfw** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 5:35 pm

They are internal doors within a house. The frames will need to be fitted to to ensure smoke travel prevention. Are the regs still that a chain mechanism needs to be fitted too to make the door self close itself after being opened?

Cheers for your help

joiner_uk · Post by **joiner_uk** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 5:53 pm

Say you have a standard door size of 30" wide.

The fire door frames will be slightly wider than the original frames as they are a thicker section of timber to allow for larger rebaits. If there is not enough space at the side of the old frames (if they are tight to the brick work) this will cause problems

Perko door closers will be ok but check first, regs change every other week

The doors or frames need to be fitted with intumiscent strips to the top and sides.

The frames need to be sealed with fire retarded sealer

Get the frame fitted and seal frame, hang door, fit intumiscent strips if not already fitted to frame then fit architraves and latches, handles etc...

I would think for the fitting you will pay around £110-£190 per door and frame.

scottfw · Post by **scottfw** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 3:07 pm

Thanks for the info. In order to check the regs do I ask my local council or the local fire service? It is so unclear in the HMO regs to be honest on who is responsible for info.

Cheers for your help

joiner_uk · Post by **joiner_uk** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 3:25 pm

Contact your local council, they will advise you best.

scottfw · Post by **scottfw** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:49 pm

I will give them a shout. Thanks for your good advice.

Cheers

carhartt kid · Post by **carhartt kid** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:08 pm

You don't have to replace the linings with rebated ones. All you have to do is remove and replace the door stops with 35x35mm stops. Glued and screwed! As opposed to nailed or pinned! That is however all depending on how standard the dimensions of the lined opening are, and how plumb and square! Fire rated doors have very very low tolerances for adjustment, ie planing the edges off. They all have hardwood capping's on their edges, covering a dense woodchip conglomerate inside! Often they only have enough for just a leading edge to be planed! Literally mm!!!

You'll also have to fit either smoke or intumescent strips to the door or lining. The difference will be dictated by the use of the room and its contents. ie Kitchen containing a cooker will have intumescent, whereas a bedroom will only be smoke strip! Fitting to the door is easier, as you just rout a channel for the strips! If you are forced to replace the linings, then a rebated lining is handy but not essential. A standard planed softwood lining is acceptable (and cheaper).

Closers, latches and hinges are the most important part of a fire door. The door is useless unless it is closed. And when hit by fire, that it stays closed and doesn't drop out from the hinges melting! I've done the course to "rate fire doors" and the demo they do where they burn through a selection of doors is startling! The hinges and ironmongery literally just melt.

For domestic or rented properties, concealed closers are rated, plus you have to have rated latches and handles. Plus (ball) bearing hinges (or architectural hinges as they are sometimes known) are a requirement!

Your local council planning office will have a a full list of what their requirements are. Plus you local fire service provide fire inspections and advice!

I used to do a lot of work for letting agencies and there was one thing that a lot of landlords overlooked at their great expense. Its all very well putting a fire door into a partition (stud) wall. But if the wall isn't clad in fire rated plasterboard or have fireproof insulation it makes the door only a minimal defence against the fore spreading. Even holes through the walls for waste pipes or electrical conduits have to be "firestopped" with intumescent collars or mastic!

A lot of this however will be dictated by the age of your property and the intended use. Be honest to the authorities and then you won't get stung later. Best of luck

Gadget · Post by **Gadget** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:32 pm

c k, you do go on a bit mate, but lots of info and advice there!...

carhartt kid · Post by **carhartt kid** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 7:31 pm

I drink far far far far far far far far far far too much coffeeeeeeee sometimes!!!

carhartt kid · Post by **carhartt kid** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 7:32 pm

Oh and I can type really quick too. Uni seems to force you to do this!!! Means you get to the bar quicker!