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Alcove Shelving
Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 7:53 pm
by Not so Handy Andy
I'm planning on making some shelving for the alcoves either side of a chimney breast. I want the shelves to look quite 'chunky', so I've decided to put some battens around the alcove then board across the top and bottom and then fix a board across the front to complete the shelf.
My question is, how should I fix the front board? If I use nails are there any I can use where I won't be able to see the head? I've looked at various cheap nail/brad guns that look like they'll do the job but I'm keen to know what the finished article will look like.
Also, as I want the shelf to look like one piece of wood, would you cut the front board to size before fitting or sand to the correct size after fitting?
Any advice would be gratefully received.
Cheers,
Andy
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:40 am
by big-all
if you have a router 'router a rebate 12mmx12mm in the top off a bit off 2x1 planed [18-21x44mm]and glue 12mm ply into the rebate
at this stage you can router a molding on the top and bottom front edge of the shelves
you can also rebate 6mm out the bottom to accept 6mm ply
if you have a table saw then you can rip down the timber for the battons to 26mm x22 or whatever is left
if you use 4x1 par 21x95 you will get 3 battons out of the wood rather than just one with 2x1 par
if you dont have a table saw ask your local wood yard to cut down some 4x1 par[planed all round]to 26mm strips "actual size"
glue a rib on the bottom off the shelve every 12" or so along its length
stopping 30mm short off the back edge to clear the 21mm batton and allow 9mm for skribing in[cutting shelve to wall shape]stop the side wall battons 30mm short for the same reasons
pin and glue the 6mm on the bottom
if you dont rebate the timber still glue under the front off the shelve before instilation but obviously use full depth battons to match the front
you only need a pin gun to hold the bottom on whilst the glue dries but it will make the job a lot easier
i am assuming the shelves will be around 40" wide by 14 deep" !!!!
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 6:06 pm
by Not so Handy Andy
Thanks for the advice.
Basically you're saying use 2x1 planed for the front edge with a rebate cut for 12mm ply on the top and 6mm underneath. Then cut the battons to fit in the gap?
If I don't have a router is it likely that a timber yard will be able to make these cuts for me? I can then fit everything together...
You're spot on with the sizes, or there abouts. Only deviation is that the bottom one on one side will be slightly larger and angled in the corner so that a TV can go on it.
Thanks again for the help.
Andy
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:24 pm
by big-all
ok plan b
exactly as plan "A" except
instead off rebating for the front edge you make all the battons the same size including the front edge and face the front edge with full sized timber
as in if you use the 25x22 batton idea face the front with 2x1" either comming forward the 22mm added on or stop the shelve 22mm back so when the plant the 2x1 on the front its in the right place
any wood yard will rip timber down for free beyond that any work they can do is likly to cost you thats if they have the machinery
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 9:00 pm
by Not so Handy Andy
Sounds like an easier plan.
Will I still get away with glueing the front edge board on or do I need to consider nailing as well or would this not look good?
Will ask some questions at the timber yard as well.
Cheers,
Andy
Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 1:13 am
by big-all
all you need to ask at the wood yard is
what size is your ply 5.5 or 6 and 12 or 13
then deduct the measurements from the 2x1"[44 or 45 x21]
order 3m per shelve plus 20% of the 25mm ish batton or whatever you choose
assuming 6 shelves it would be 18 plus 20%= 22m
plus the front edging 6x1m[2x1"] plus 20% =7.2m
order waterpoof glue x1L and bobs your uncle
no need to nail except it will save you holding the panels and battons together till they dry