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Hello,

MY house is a 1920's solid external wall. The bathroom is in the corner of the house. It is a simple bath with shower (not shower cubicle) positioned on the outside corner.

I am re-tiling the bathroom and just finished chipping off a layer of tiles to reveal the original tiles and lots of crumbling blown plaster. I was going to plaster to a flatter (as best I could) finish then tile straight on top, then I thought it might be easier to dot&dab, then Ifound this forum and realised plsaerboard isn't a good idea in bathrooms.

I thought this might be a good chance to add a little insulation.

Will aquapanel insulated work on the walls?

Can it be dot & dabbed?

Aquapanel thermal is designed for floors and so it is not a goo idea to use it on walls without first consulting the manufacturers.

You Cannot Dot & Dab it to the wall. I contacted Kanuf over this question before, they are very helpful

Dot & Dab aquapanel

You can contact the makers of aquapanel here-

Contact Knauf

I hope this helps.

If you do contact them please let us know their reply?

I haven't contacted them I have decided to use Aquapanel on a 38mm timber stud and add insulation to this wall.

I bought treated timber incase any moisture gets through.

I have read about the need for an air gap behind aquapanel.

I plan to buy the slab 50mm thick insulation and squeeze it to fit the 38mm gap, will this work as there will be no air gap behind the aquapanel.

Alertanatively I can buy 25mm celotec panels which are coated silver each side , they will leave an air gap.

Which will be better?

henry123 wrote:I haven't contacted them I have decided to use Aquapanel on a 38mm timber stud and add insulation to this wall.

I bought treated timber incase any moisture gets through.

I have read about the need for an air gap behind aquapanel.

I plan to buy the slab 50mm thick insulation and squeeze it to fit the 38mm gap, will this work as there will be no air gap behind the aquapanel.

Alertanatively I can buy 25mm celotec panels which are coated silver each side , they will leave an air gap.

Which will be better?

I think the celotec panels will be best.

Compressing insulation means that it does not perform as well as it should do.

thanks,

I will try and find thinner battons for the 25mm celotex.

My wife is not pleased when I explained how thick the stud wall would be, the bathroom is very small and the wall would add 38+12.5mm. She already has difficulty bathing the children in the current space.

I may be going back to just patching the plaster and tiling straight on top.

Is this acceptable on an old solid wall house?

All the original 1920's tiles are still rock solid with a cement looking backing. The blown plaster was in all the places that modern tiles had been put on top of normal plaster with normal tile adhesive.

Therefore can I use a similair compond to the 1920's cement or will this not stick to normal plaster?

Also if I patch up with plaster how long do I really need to wait before I can tile?

(sorry for all the sudden questions)

Skim the wall then apply a tanking kit such as Bal WP1 to it, job done

£46 for the tanking kit, ensure the plaster has fully dried out before Tanking.

thanks,

that is a nice simple soultion.

It is a bath you stand in with shower mounted on the wall.

What area do I need to tank?

Do I just tank from bath level upwards. The shower wall and side wall against the bath?

I am guessing a single shower tanking kit would give just enough product to cover the long bath wall and shower wall if it's only from bath level up.

I will be tiling to the ceiling. Is it o.k just to stop the tanking once above shower height or do I need to go up to the ceiling (can water travel up grout via capillary to an untanked part)

Go up as high as the tanking kit lets you, there's not gonna be a lot of water getting above head height but you may aswell use the kit up.