Howdy..
I got myself some Solid oak worktops 3m lenght.. 600mm width and 40mm thickness.
I'm replacing old work tops that are of equal measurements give or take 5mm.
Is it best to keep as many wholes pieces as possible without cutting? e.g. First part to replace is 1.75m length.. is it best to replace as one part of solid oak?
What is the best method of fixing the worktop down and then sealing round the edges?
Cheers all.. I'll blitz the pictures section soon! :)
Pete
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Kitchen Worktop
Wood working questions and answers in here please
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PeteW
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Hi Pete,
Yes to your first question, though try to keep any cuts/joins away from hob / sink cutouts so as not to weaken the worktops too much.
Seal any cut edges (such as sink / hob cut outs) with either PVA glue, or varnish, or at least 5 or more coats of danish oil. If using danish oil overall, then you want at least 3 coats on the top and bottom of the worktops, and 5 coats on all cut edges ideally. Not easy I know, due to the drying times involved, but that would be ideal.
When fixing wood worktops down, you need to buy 'slotted stretcher plates'. Fix these to the carcass sides every 600mm or so front and back, using the two round holes. Then with the slotted holes (now on the underside of the worktop), use one screw in the one that is at a right angle to the direction of the grain. Tighten screw, then slacken off half a turn. This allows your worktops to move seasonally. They will expand and contract across the grain....e.g. front of worktop to back of worktop.....hence using the slotted plates.
Hope this helps.....if I knew how to use sketch-up or the like, I could've drawn a picture......saves a 1000 words.....
Yes to your first question, though try to keep any cuts/joins away from hob / sink cutouts so as not to weaken the worktops too much.
Seal any cut edges (such as sink / hob cut outs) with either PVA glue, or varnish, or at least 5 or more coats of danish oil. If using danish oil overall, then you want at least 3 coats on the top and bottom of the worktops, and 5 coats on all cut edges ideally. Not easy I know, due to the drying times involved, but that would be ideal.
When fixing wood worktops down, you need to buy 'slotted stretcher plates'. Fix these to the carcass sides every 600mm or so front and back, using the two round holes. Then with the slotted holes (now on the underside of the worktop), use one screw in the one that is at a right angle to the direction of the grain. Tighten screw, then slacken off half a turn. This allows your worktops to move seasonally. They will expand and contract across the grain....e.g. front of worktop to back of worktop.....hence using the slotted plates.
Hope this helps.....if I knew how to use sketch-up or the like, I could've drawn a picture......saves a 1000 words.....

Mr Mike
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Thanks Mr Mike.. dead helpful that!!
One thing... is best to sit the 3metre lengths on tressals and then give the whle thing 3 coats of Danish and then cut up peices and fit and oil further once fitted or make all neccessary cuts, fit then oil? The guy I got them off just warned not to get oil on any surface I intend to glue.
I guess where all tops meet and joined are finally sealed with silicone?
One thing... is best to sit the 3metre lengths on tressals and then give the whle thing 3 coats of Danish and then cut up peices and fit and oil further once fitted or make all neccessary cuts, fit then oil? The guy I got them off just warned not to get oil on any surface I intend to glue.
I guess where all tops meet and joined are finally sealed with silicone?
PeteW
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Cut pieces as you want and have a dry fit (ie. 'a rehearsal'), then sand the individual worktop pieces as necessary and oil.....resting flat on battens or trestles.....make sure you provide support every 500mm or so, to avoid the worktops warping.
Just masking tape the edges / surfaces that you intend to glue.
I would use PVA glue on the joins, and biscuits or even better a plywood 'loose tongue' to avoid any lateral misalignment.....worktop bolts underneath.....when you're ready apply the PVA first.....then I run a bead of clear low modulus silicone near the top of the join before tightening the bolts up.....you then have PVA dripping on your head as you tighten up from underneath.....and on the top of the join....the silicone should be aqueezed out as the worktops are tightened up......I then just rub a little sawdust into the top of the join which cleans up any excess clear silicone.
It's a messy old business.....well it is when I do it anyway....

Just masking tape the edges / surfaces that you intend to glue.
I would use PVA glue on the joins, and biscuits or even better a plywood 'loose tongue' to avoid any lateral misalignment.....worktop bolts underneath.....when you're ready apply the PVA first.....then I run a bead of clear low modulus silicone near the top of the join before tightening the bolts up.....you then have PVA dripping on your head as you tighten up from underneath.....and on the top of the join....the silicone should be aqueezed out as the worktops are tightened up......I then just rub a little sawdust into the top of the join which cleans up any excess clear silicone.
It's a messy old business.....well it is when I do it anyway....


Mr Mike
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