www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk

Hi all, any help is well recieved.

I seem to have left the old iron sitting danger side down on the kitchen top. In my defence i was jetlagged & i had a man cold, and i am also a berk.

The top is laminate, and now has a raised & a bit cracked manky iron shape to it. A friend swears i can get a replacement patch job from my local diy store, but searching the internet i cant see anything like it.

Is he talking crazy or do such things exist?

you are in trouble
proper repair new worktop

as the top will be uneven and probably bubbled now you will have a job to stop any stray water

your choices are

hide it with a chopping board or simmilar sitting on the bubbles and rocking about

same chopping board seated on coloured silicone to support and stop water getting under the edge

router out the surface layer and use somthing contrasting like metal or glass siliconed in

Or smooth or all down and tile it

thanks guys. accidents happen, but that doesnt stop them being any less annoying.

the blistered bit is far away from the sink so im not too worried about water getting in. but it would be nice to have it smoothed and sealed. might go have a look in the shops tomorrow for anything that could possibly work.

erugh.

big-all wrote: router out the surface layer and use somthing contrasting like metal or glass siliconed in

cheers bigall,

If its ok I'm going to steal your idea, and put it to a customer of mine as my own

2 burn marks each side of the cooker, and a nice dark blue glass tile routered in might just do the trick

And finally, you could also renew all of the worktop!..

Move House

handyman wrote:

big-all wrote: router out the surface layer and use somthing contrasting like metal or glass siliconed in

cheers bigall,

If its ok I'm going to steal your idea, and put it to a customer of mine as my own

2 burn marks each side of the cooker, and a nice dark blue glass tile routered in might just do the trick

just remember if you need to do 2 or more passes make the depth off the first is the same as a bit off 5.5-6mm ply /mdf so if nesisesy you can pad out the rebate to support the base off the router as you cross the rebate

then give the same consideration to a second if you need to do a third pass

also before you chisel out the corners drill a hole with a drill 1mm bigger radius than the corner off the tile
if it has no noticable radius just use a 5mm drill bit

cheers big all,

will practice it on a bit of scrap worktop first (if she wants to go ahead)

handyman wrote:cheers big all,

will practice it on a bit of scrap worktop first (if she wants to go ahead)

dont waste a new cutter on your practice as it will blunt it quickly

what size are your actual tiles and what size is the router base!!!