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Aquapanel and depth of battens
Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 4:44 pm
by DIY_Johnny
Hi, I have read the posts on the aquapanel for a bathroom. I note that you can't dot and dab the aquapanel but should use battens and recommended distance is 38mm or so.
For my teeny bathroom taking 38 +12mm panel = 50mm from all walls is quite a bit and means that putting in a shower becomes difficult. Most walls are beat to sh#t so I would like to use a board rather than try plaster it.
For the non shower areas why can't i simply screw the panel to the wall. Is it because I need an air gap behind the wall.
cheers
Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:15 pm
by DIY_Johnny
Right am getting confused now
I see from the guide
http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/building_a_shower.htm
that you should 'tank' over the aqual panel using Bal WP1 Waterproof coating.
However if this creates a water proof seal, why do I need the battons in the first place?
Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:23 pm
by ultimatehandyman
The tanking is only required in the immediate shower area.
This explains why you have to use battens for the aquapanel-
dot-dab-aquapanel-direct-bond-aquapanel-t3056.html
I'm sure that bstyle now just uses plasterboard and tanks it, but I'm not certain.
Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:44 pm
by DIY_Johnny
Cheers UHM, is tanking used in the shower only as an extra precaution because my thinking is that if it was water proof no moisture would get through the aquapanel hence no need for that 38mm air gap, i.e. could you use d n d just a spacer and use screws to ensure its actually secure to the wall or just much thinner battens
Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:53 am
by ultimatehandyman
If you don't tank it there is a risk that water will eventually penetrate and then may cause damage.
When using stuff like this it is important to follow their instructions and advice or there could be comeback if the product ever fails.
Obviously if you are doing the work for yourself and things go wrong then it's not much of a problem and you can put it down to experience.
Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:38 pm
by bathstyle
I rarely use Aquapanel for walls these days. I use either the Homelux tanking Kit or Schluiter Kerdi tanking Kit straight on top of Plasterboard.
Topps Tiles sell the Homelux Kit, it's about £40 for 5 square metres which is your average shower. Very easy to install, same day tiling.
Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 9:17 am
by DIY_Johnny
makes sense guys thanks.
My concern was that I don't have enough room for the shower unit. According to the Mira Stylus instructions I need a gap of 47mm but I now see that some of it can be recessed if needed. This helps a bit. Tanking kit seems just the ticket. Gives me peace of mind too
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 4:25 pm
by DIY_Johnny
Post is a bit old, but it turns out that I am unable to use the aquapanel as with using the battens I lose too much off the width of the bathroom (can't close the door!)
So its back to the plaster board!
could anybody just indicate what type I need and the thickness. Also is dot and dab fine to hold standard porcelin tiles
Cheers all
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 4:35 pm
by ultimatehandyman
Why not
dot & dab the plasterboard ( i'd use 12.5mm ) and then add some as these as a secondary fixing-
dead link removed
Make sure you tank the plasterboard in wet areas, such as the shower area
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 4:42 pm
by DIY_Johnny
Cheers UHM, thats what I was going to do (dot and dab & tank). I am just about 20mm too much with aqualpanel and the battens.
I suppose I wait for a bit before I nail in the fixings. Will these fixings work in breeze block. Its like drilling through a digestive biscuit
Just bought a Mira Excel thermostatic shower. God they are pricey
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 4:58 pm
by ultimatehandyman
NewbieJohn wrote:Cheers UHM, thats what I was going to do (dot and dab & tank). I am just about 20mm too much with aqualpanel and the battens.
I suppose I wait for a bit before I nail in the fixings. Will these fixings work in breeze block. Its like drilling through a digestive biscuit
Just bought a Mira Excel thermostatic shower. God they are pricey
Hmmm. it sounds more like thermalite then, rather then breeze blocks?
thermalite is extremely soft, breeze blocks are much tougher.
I'm not sure if those fixings would work on thermalite, I have checked their website and it does not seem to say.
You can email their technical support to check suitability, I'd do it but I am not at home for a few days-
If you could also let us know what they say please?
email:
bgtechnical.enquiries@bpb.com
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:03 pm
by DIY_Johnny
Dunno, its back airy type wall, kinda crumbles when scraping at it. Built in 1930.
Will take a photo later and will email them and let you know
cheers
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:06 pm
by ultimatehandyman
Hmmm, don't think they had thermalite back then
If you drill into it and put a wall plug in and a screw, does it hold ok?
If it does then the fixings above thould be ok
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:13 pm
by DIY_Johnny
Yes, more or less, I always find that I need a slightly smaller hole and really wedge the plug in and its fine. Otherwise the plug never seems to take hold and the screwing action pulls the plug out
UHM to use those nail plugs do I just dill through the plasterboard, inset plug and just nail in ?
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:16 pm
by ultimatehandyman
NewbieJohn wrote:Yes, more or less, I always find that I need a slightly smaller hole and really wedge the plug in and its fine. Otherwise the plug never seems to take hold and the screwing action pulls the plug out
UHM to use those nail plugs do I just dill through the plasterboard, inset plug and just nail in ?
I have never used that particular kind before and so they should come with instructions, but with most hammer in fixings you just drill a hole to the recommended size, insert the fixing and then hammer it home.