www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk

Its probably my most common job I fix. The tiler/bathroom fitter grouts all over, including the space between the tiles and bath or shower tray. They also grout the corners between walls.

The bath gap is then siliconed over. The corner is left as is.

Is it not obvious that you should firstly have a gap, and not butt the tiles to the bath, then not grout this gap? And also to silicon down the corner of the wall and not grout it.

Many times you go to a house that looked great when the tiler left, then a week later a crack appears on the corners. Then a few months later the silicon fails, as its only been smeared over grout, and due to movement the grout has cracked on the join from bath to tile.


What do you think?

I've left a gap at the corners of the tiled walls so that the silicone isn't only applied to the surface to form a fillet, but also goes into the gap. When the sanitary ware goes in, a gap to be filled will be left.

There is also a gap between the tiling and the ceiling which I plan to seal with decorator's caulk so that I can paint it.

You are right, this is a very common problem.

Angies shower had been grouted along the bottom and in the corners, after a few months the water got through the cracks. It all had to be cut out and replaced with a good quality silicone sealant-

still think that video is priceless

Good advice, never thought of that, glad I read it Am about to tackle the shower installation in the few weeks

I like that idea of the washing up liquid, always p#ssed me off trying to get a smooth smooth surface.

so would you use tile spacers to keep the tiles off the edge off the shower tray?

NewbieJohn wrote: so would you use tile spacers to keep the tiles off the edge off the shower tray?

I use 1mm spacers to gap the shower tray/bath off the tiles. You just have to make sure the silicon goes right into the gap.

and make sure tray is on a solid base, and if its a bath, fill with water before siliconing, then leave water in till silicon is fully dried

was just having a look at B&Q, was originally going to put on the floors, aquapanal over 19mm floor boards over 47mm x 47mm battons @ 300 centers. The battons just sit on a concrete slab.

That was until I saw the cost of the aquapanel Might resort back to 18mm plywood . Am wondering if I can get away with 12mm ply and battons @ 200 centers as i really would like to keep the floor lever down

why not just tile straight onto the concrete slab? if you want to keep the height down?!

handyman wrote:still think that video is priceless

Took me hours to film and edit

ultimatehandyman wrote:

handyman wrote:still think that video is priceless

Took me hours to film and edit

With a steady hand, take my hat off to you chez

marc1106 wrote:why not just tile straight onto the concrete slab? if you want to keep the height down?!

Oh because the mains water supply runs straight on top of the through the bathroom floor, ... or at least it did until I accidently broke it and flooded out the flat and shorted my electricity

Also I didn't want too much of a step up into the shower and I need room for the shower waste and fall of the pipe.

If you can get 25mm WBP ply, you might not need floorboards at all. If you are battening every 300mm, you should have enough rigidity.

When you batten, bed them in on gripfill as well as fixing to prevent any movement

yeah, was actually looking for 25mm but couldn't seem to source it easily.
As I am always relying on deliveries its kinda easy to just get all stuff delivered from B&Q or wickes
(and they are open in the evenings )

John,

Any update on your er............ mishap?

Hi Steve, will pm you, all gone very interesting!