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I saw a uni bond dvd, tile on to floorboards with a flexi adhesive, but is it worth it, floor is level more or less, and solid, or best to go 12 ply?

Bottoms of kitchen units, I removed to get the floor underneth a bit, was going to fix then tile, or tile, then fix, after cutting lenghways to get the correct fit?

And power adhesesive is better to use then ready mix ?


any special tools to mix ? or just a stick?

cheers

hooly wrote:I saw a uni bond dvd, tile on to floorboards with a flexi adhesive, but is it worth it, floor is level more or less, and solid, or best to go 12 ply?

Bottoms of kitchen units, I removed to get the floor underneth a bit, was going to fix then tile, or tile, then fix, after cutting lenghways to get the correct fit?

And power adhesesive is better to use then ready mix ?


any special tools to mix ? or just a stick?

cheers

Overboard the floor with 12mm ply.....or 6mm hardibacker. Tucked just under units. (Plinths removed)

Tile with flexi cement and flexi grout.

Then replace plinths.


Have a pint or 2

I read prime plywood first? is that only if the adhesive i get says so?

does the trowel size depend on the tile, or adhesive?


cheers, should be starting this week

Only-Me wrote:

hooly wrote:I saw a uni bond dvd, tile on to floorboards with a flexi adhesive, but is it worth it, floor is level more or less, and solid, or best to go 12 ply?

Bottoms of kitchen units, I removed to get the floor underneth a bit, was going to fix then tile, or tile, then fix, after cutting lenghways to get the correct fit?

And power adhesesive is better to use then ready mix ?


any special tools to mix ? or just a stick?

cheers

Overboard the floor with 12mm ply.....or 6mm hardibacker. Tucked just under units. (Plinths removed)

Tile with flexi cement and flexi grout.

Then replace plinths.


Have a pint or 2

these recommendations above are the minimum standard, personally, i would use knauf aquapanel adhered and screwed, available from wickes in 1200 x 900 sheets, or use ditra matting available from most good tile shops as an uncoupling membrane, always use flexible adhesive and grout. 12mm plywoood is a dated method of creating rigidity and can cause failures...

hooly wrote:I read prime plywood first? is that only if the adhesive i get says so?

does the trowel size depend on the tile, or adhesive?


cheers, should be starting this week

if you are using plywood, then use an acryllic primer ( not pva ) to create a good bond between wood and adhesive, and erradicate dust, the trowell size depends on the size of tile and how level the substrate is, an 8mm trowell on a level substrate and 300mmx300mm tile is minimum, a larger format tile say 600x300 requires more, as the surface area and weight will depress the tile more, a solid bed u notch trowell of 10mm is the usual floor trowell, as you can always alter the angle of your wrist to achieve the correct height ( just keep your wrist at the same angle )

cheers, get the primer from b n q hopefully,

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?a ... D=26697867

I got gray, does colour matter? its a sandy colour tile.


I have 8 mill thick tiles, whats the best mix, it says 2 to 5 kg does 1 metre sq

I want to do a sq metre at a time

do you not prime the ply?, as the adhesive does not say prime first


cheers

always prime plywood, the adhesive should be light if grouting in a light colour. mix up adhesive until the swirls in the bucket hold up and don't drop

I got ply down, a slight slope 12 mill ply over sound floorboards 1 inch and quater screws, would you go for dead level, too late now, or is say 2 or 3 mill out ok?



should i have pilot holed first, some screws were slightly pround? will go over with a hand screwdriver tommorow

you can lose that with your tolerance in a 10mm solid bed trowell, to achieve a level floor

Any tips, find centre of room, and then tile in quaters, the fall is going awey from the centre, so rembember were, and slightly thicker bed were it falls?

cheers

With most good flexi adhesives you should olny prime under side and
edges of ply to prevent moisture ingress
No need to prime face

hooly wrote:Any tips, find centre of room, and then tile in quaters, the fall is going awey from the centre, so rembember were, and slightly thicker bed were it falls?

cheers

find your highest point, and after setting out, start to tile at this point ( if possible ) set the floor out with a chalk line / or straight edge, and continue to use the straight edge / level on the top of the tiles to achieve a level floor

I did all that, it was a few tiles that was a little high,say 1mill, usally the corner,
would a method to level, trowel 90deg, then say drop to 45d to level it out?

Whats the min floor depth for tiles, 330x 330?

I used 10 min trowel, at about 45 degres, quite a thick bed

the adhesive says thin or thick bed.



Is a few a mill or so tolerable on a normal job?

I would like to get the bed right, as they are hard and messy to lift up!

for future, know how


just the edges to go now. cheers