tiling over existing wall tiles
Moderator: Moderators
- Deleted-user-3
- BANNED
- Posts: 2172
- Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 6:01 pm
- Location: Peterborough
- Has thanked: 101 times
- Been thanked: 157 times
tiling over existing wall tiles
tiling job next week
gotta keep cost down
existing tiles are 6-8mm, quite old (70's), not glossy, not stone, probably clay, look reasonably porous, well bonded to s+c render + skim
I was planning on using the readymixed tub stuff from wickes at around 20 quid for 10 litres...
got about 15 square, includes a shower (its an en-suite)
ive done jobs like this in the past with no comebacks but seeing as im on here...
any tips?
gotta keep cost down
existing tiles are 6-8mm, quite old (70's), not glossy, not stone, probably clay, look reasonably porous, well bonded to s+c render + skim
I was planning on using the readymixed tub stuff from wickes at around 20 quid for 10 litres...
got about 15 square, includes a shower (its an en-suite)
ive done jobs like this in the past with no comebacks but seeing as im on here...
any tips?
- Deleted-user-3
- BANNED
- Posts: 2172
- Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 6:01 pm
- Location: Peterborough
- Has thanked: 101 times
- Been thanked: 157 times
- ultimatehandyman
- Site Admin
- Posts: 24425
- Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2005 7:06 pm
- Location: Darwen, Lancashire
- Has thanked: 1012 times
- Been thanked: 918 times
The pro's don't like tiling over tiles , although I have a mate that swears by it
Give the existing tiles a good clean with sugar soap and make sure that the new tile joints do not align with the old joints.
I would not use a readymixed adhesive though, I'd get a professional adhesive from BAL
Give the existing tiles a good clean with sugar soap and make sure that the new tile joints do not align with the old joints.
I would not use a readymixed adhesive though, I'd get a professional adhesive from BAL
- Deleted-user-3
- BANNED
- Posts: 2172
- Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 6:01 pm
- Location: Peterborough
- Has thanked: 101 times
- Been thanked: 157 times
- ultimatehandyman
- Site Admin
- Posts: 24425
- Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2005 7:06 pm
- Location: Darwen, Lancashire
- Has thanked: 1012 times
- Been thanked: 918 times
Thay have a readymixed adhesive that should do the trick-
BAL whitestar
I think Topps tiles stock most of their adhesives.
BAL whitestar
I think Topps tiles stock most of their adhesives.
- Deleted-user-3
- BANNED
- Posts: 2172
- Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 6:01 pm
- Location: Peterborough
- Has thanked: 101 times
- Been thanked: 157 times
- Deleted-user-3
- BANNED
- Posts: 2172
- Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 6:01 pm
- Location: Peterborough
- Has thanked: 101 times
- Been thanked: 157 times
- lamntile
- Senior Member
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Sun Aug 09, 2009 8:03 pm
- Location: Redcar Teesside
- Has thanked: 0
- Been thanked: 0
- Contact:
bathstyle wrote:
You wouldn't find many Pros doing it though, certainly none that provide a guarantee with their work
I have tiled over tiles on many occasions over the years and for a lot of people i am still in touch with and have had no tiles drop off. And i also guarantee my work.
As i stated in a prev post if a customer wants to do it on the "cheap" and without the mess of removing tiles and the original tiles are sound, I and not many other people will refuse to do the job becuase we have to tile over tile.
If its so much of a bodge as you call it why do all the major tile adhesive manufacturers produce adhesives sutable for tiling on to tile ??
Paul
Weight issue is a big problem, also relying on the existing adhesive, how can you guarantee something that you haven't actually done?? No, it doesn't add up.
Also, even if using the right adhesive, you must make sure it is suitable for either glossy or a matt tile, many manufacturers specify a type for each.
I tend to rip it all down and start again, but I am always in a situation where i have to get pipes in walls for a towel rad/Shower valve etc.
I find a lot of people that can't plaster will leave wall tiles on, I really don't feel that the cost issue is any sort of an excuse, skimming a wall is a couple of hours, plus a bag of Multifinsih. boarding a wall including ripping old one down is also a couple of hours plus the cost of a couple of sheets of p/board....tenner.
Even if a customer was worried about the cost, I would probably prepare things properly FOC, just for peace of mind.
Also, even if using the right adhesive, you must make sure it is suitable for either glossy or a matt tile, many manufacturers specify a type for each.
I tend to rip it all down and start again, but I am always in a situation where i have to get pipes in walls for a towel rad/Shower valve etc.
I find a lot of people that can't plaster will leave wall tiles on, I really don't feel that the cost issue is any sort of an excuse, skimming a wall is a couple of hours, plus a bag of Multifinsih. boarding a wall including ripping old one down is also a couple of hours plus the cost of a couple of sheets of p/board....tenner.
Even if a customer was worried about the cost, I would probably prepare things properly FOC, just for peace of mind.
- Deleted-user-3
- BANNED
- Posts: 2172
- Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 6:01 pm
- Location: Peterborough
- Has thanked: 101 times
- Been thanked: 157 times
thing is bathstyle.... i AM a plasterer... and prepping walls for tiles for me would involve rendering em, not skimming em...
if i hacked off the tiles I'd feel I had no choice than to go back to brick and render it flat... a good days work, 2 blokes for a tidy one and all that mess to get rid of...
i wouldnt be happy skimming it... well, I'd feel it wold be more of a bodge than tiling over tiles put it that way... and in an ensuite floor to ceiling with a shower about 4 foot by 9 foot...
and i definately wouldnt be happy bonding it or hardwalling it... not in a shower man?
skimming something thats all over the place after removing tiles is difficult to get flat..
I can understand the weight issue, also the bond issue but if the existing job is sound I see no reason to create extra work unless what I am about to do would create problems later on...
only thing im not sure about not being a tiler is the tile to tile bond... and the adhesive to use..
wickes stuff seems to work ok in the past but if there might be issues?
bossman put me onto some readymix bal, i can get it from topps just over the road from wickes so no hardship, unless its 50 quid a tub or somesuch...
The job is for a pensioner who ive done lots of jobs for previously, she likes to be looked after both on price and quality but she's had experience of people takin the mick before today so i generally let her tell me what she wants, source the stuff, let her check it out and purchase it on her discount specials then do the job..
I told her there were two ways to do this job, hack it off and render it or providing the tiles are sound, straight over the top...
I honestly would have thought that a pro tiler (not a bathroom fitter, how many times does a new bathroom get fitted with existing tiles?) would do this sort of thing all the time? Theyre not plasterers so theyd need to get a spread in to render em every time else?
then theres tiling on plasterboard....
Im no pro tiler, but i can do the job well... and i hate having to tile on plasterboard in wet areas, especially round showers, its almost guaranteed to go pear shaped eventually...
I prefer to use waterproof ply...
so theres my dilemma, to do it 'by the book' which involves rendering, or plywood / aquapanel etc probably doubling the quote, or stick em straight over the top...
what would you do in this situation, honestly? knock the job back?
if i hacked off the tiles I'd feel I had no choice than to go back to brick and render it flat... a good days work, 2 blokes for a tidy one and all that mess to get rid of...
i wouldnt be happy skimming it... well, I'd feel it wold be more of a bodge than tiling over tiles put it that way... and in an ensuite floor to ceiling with a shower about 4 foot by 9 foot...
and i definately wouldnt be happy bonding it or hardwalling it... not in a shower man?
skimming something thats all over the place after removing tiles is difficult to get flat..
I can understand the weight issue, also the bond issue but if the existing job is sound I see no reason to create extra work unless what I am about to do would create problems later on...
only thing im not sure about not being a tiler is the tile to tile bond... and the adhesive to use..
wickes stuff seems to work ok in the past but if there might be issues?
bossman put me onto some readymix bal, i can get it from topps just over the road from wickes so no hardship, unless its 50 quid a tub or somesuch...
The job is for a pensioner who ive done lots of jobs for previously, she likes to be looked after both on price and quality but she's had experience of people takin the mick before today so i generally let her tell me what she wants, source the stuff, let her check it out and purchase it on her discount specials then do the job..
I told her there were two ways to do this job, hack it off and render it or providing the tiles are sound, straight over the top...
I honestly would have thought that a pro tiler (not a bathroom fitter, how many times does a new bathroom get fitted with existing tiles?) would do this sort of thing all the time? Theyre not plasterers so theyd need to get a spread in to render em every time else?
then theres tiling on plasterboard....
Im no pro tiler, but i can do the job well... and i hate having to tile on plasterboard in wet areas, especially round showers, its almost guaranteed to go pear shaped eventually...
I prefer to use waterproof ply...
so theres my dilemma, to do it 'by the book' which involves rendering, or plywood / aquapanel etc probably doubling the quote, or stick em straight over the top...
what would you do in this situation, honestly? knock the job back?
Woah, where do I start.
If you really feel that rendering the wall is the best way then you need to hop out of the 70's (?) ......well before my time anyway.
A skim coat is fine, easy enough to get flat, certainly no need to go back to blockwork/brick in the vast majority of cases.
Plasterboard is also fine to tile onto, if it's in a shower, it needs tanking.
Of course I haven't seen the job so can't really fully comment, but I think I have only ever tiled on tiles once in 17 years, and I didn't like it.
I don't see the big deal with removing the existing, making good and re tiling.
Post the topic on a tradesmens forum, see what others think
If you really feel that rendering the wall is the best way then you need to hop out of the 70's (?) ......well before my time anyway.
A skim coat is fine, easy enough to get flat, certainly no need to go back to blockwork/brick in the vast majority of cases.
Plasterboard is also fine to tile onto, if it's in a shower, it needs tanking.
Of course I haven't seen the job so can't really fully comment, but I think I have only ever tiled on tiles once in 17 years, and I didn't like it.
I don't see the big deal with removing the existing, making good and re tiling.
Post the topic on a tradesmens forum, see what others think