Preparation for tiling

Tiling questions and answers in here please

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jockass
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Preparation for tiling

Post by jockass »

Hi,

I have recently had my kitchen re-wired and a new kitchen fitted. Last thing to do is get some tiling done. I have attached some photos of the walls i a looking to tile and would like to know what you guys think the best prep work i can do to give a good finish? They are a quite uneven at present.

ANy advice gratefully received!

Cheers
Jock
Attachments
small wall
small wall
photo1.jpg (120.56 KiB) Viewed 1549 times
big wall
big wall
photo3.jpg (100.41 KiB) Viewed 1549 times
big wall
big wall
photo2.jpg (94.93 KiB) Viewed 1549 times
bathstyle
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Post by bathstyle »

All the prep work should have been done before the units went in, boding and a skim coar to get the walls flat.

It's gonna be very messy doing it now. First thing you need to do is scrape off the old tile adhesive, again, should've been done before, then (as mentioned) plaster the walls.
DIY_Johnny
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Post by DIY_Johnny »

Jock, I plastered a similar area and it is not easy by any means for a DIYer, especially at the edges as you rubbing the trowel off the walls etc. I found it impossible to get it flat and it looks sh#t when tiling. Spend ages sanding it down. There was a lot of this :cussing:

The lads can advise you but I wonder if you can use plasterboard or 6mm hardibacker or aquapanel. You would see the thickness as its cover by the units. I have no clue if you can use 6mm on walls

Wait for the lads as I am in no position to give advice :roll:
jockass
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Post by jockass »

Cheers John,

My thoughts were either plaster it or put up some board up and tile on the board. Not sure if board would support the weight of the tiles though.

Jock
bathstyle
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Post by bathstyle »

The 'toaster ' wall will be fine, just fill in the chases with bonding plaster (pop some metal capping over the cables first) give the painted sections a quick score with a stanley knife and it's ready to tile.

With the 'hob' wall I would suggest taking off the sockets and any other switches, terminate the cables with connector blocks and insulation tape and then skim up. You could always remove the plasterboard and space it off to get it perfect with the existing p.board. Whatever happens, the plasterboard seriosuly needs more screws in there.
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lamntile
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Post by lamntile »

As long as the board is securly fastened it will support the tiles who did the wiring btw ?
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Post by jockass »

Thanks for the replies. Local electrician did the wiring. Although it does not look too flush above the hob. The replaced plasterboard actually sits pretty flush with the exiting panels.
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Post by bathstyle »

The plasterboard looks neither flush to the existing or securely fastened
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