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I am tiling the bathroom floor with ceramic tiles laid on 8 mm plywood.
Should I tile under the bath or just run the tiles up to the wooden frame for the side panel?.
If I tile under the bath and frame I would then need to cut the side panel to fit.

Plese can someone let me know what the correct process is.

Thanks

8 mm is a bit thin for overboarding, it should really be 12mm.

Normally you have to cut the bath panel to fit the bath.

take up ur 8mm ply
secure exsisting floor to joists then lay 6mm backerboards.
follow manufacturers instructions.
then cut bath panel etc to suit.

I agree with above, get rid of the 8mm ply and use cement backer boards providing the floorboards are securely fixed with no deflection (bounce), if there is movement in the floor then you should use minimum 12mm but really 18mm ply. If using ply, remember to prime the underside and edges with neat acrylic primer prior to screwing down.

I usually make bath panels from 10mm fibre board, such as Wedi, as it is much easier to work with and will not de-laminate if it gets wet.

opus so you are saying if there is deflection in the floor DONT use b/b but use 12mm/18mm ply??
so the ply would take the deflection?

all floors should be secured to joists "no deflection" and the b/b would be better.imo..most clients worry more about the height than the tiling most these days.

anyway am off to pub my apprentice is paying 2 nite.....lol

Tictic, I'm pretty sure that we are in agreement with the use of backerboards. However, I frequently come across floors that have not been secured correctly or that have had "panels" cut out of the floorboards and are compromised in terms of their strength. In these cases I usually add noggins and try to strengthen the floor as much as possible, but still feel that the use of 18mm ply provides the confidence that the floor will not fail longterm.

There is an alternative to ply, being a product called "No More Ply", which is a 6mm cement board that apparently adds the rigidity that 15mm ply will give. This is a good option if the customer has a height issue.

Opus Romano wrote:Tictic, I'm pretty sure that we are in agreement with the use of backerboards. However, I frequently come across floors that have not been secured correctly or that have had "panels" cut out of the floorboards and are compromised in terms of their strength. In these cases I usually add noggins and try to strengthen the floor as much as possible, but still feel that the use of 18mm ply provides the confidence that the floor will not fail longterm.

There is an alternative to ply, being a product called "No More Ply", which is a 6mm cement board that apparently adds the rigidity that 15mm ply will give. This is a good option if the customer has a height issue.

Never heard of a thing called 8mm Ply Skin,4,6,12,18,25,32 maybe

Simon Site Manager wrote:Never heard of a thing called 8mm Ply Skin,4,6,12,18,25,32 maybe

Where ya bin hidin.

8mm ply is used a lot in for boat building.

Opus Romano wrote:Tictic, I'm pretty sure that we are in agreement with the use of backerboards. However, I frequently come across floors that have not been secured correctly or that have had "panels" cut out of the floorboards and are compromised in terms of their strength. In these cases I usually add noggins and try to strengthen the floor as much as possible, but still feel that the use of 18mm ply provides the confidence that the floor will not fail longterm.

There is an alternative to ply, being a product called "No More Ply", which is a 6mm cement board that apparently adds the rigidity that 15mm ply will give. This is a good option if the customer has a height issue.

hi opus your second paragraph regarding the 6mm b/board to the same rigidity as 15mm wbp ply....which i agree with totally mate.
BUT..
15mm and 18mm wbp ply have the same rigidity...