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Hardibacker/Aquapanel/Wediboard

Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 3:00 pm
by Denzil
Having ditched the ply on stud plan-thanks :cb -which product/method should I use?

The scene so far:

The upstairs space, designated 'bathroom' is defined by stud walls, as yet uncovered with the floor space being T&G over joists.
I would like to create a wet area with flush tray and overlay the floor with insulation, heating then tiles.
Can anyone advise on best (not most expensive!) way to line wet area so as to prevent her downstairs from becoming unnecessarily wet when showering activites are being undertaken? Also what's the best way to deal with the floor without raising the levels too much?

Thanks, Denzil ('if u spent less time on that .amn computer u would get more done'!)

Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:47 pm
by tictic
hi denzil
aint going to be cheap lol...well we hope not.. :lol:
ok walls first.
the 3 you have mentioned or you could use moisture resistant gyproc.."green board".
prime any of above with bal apd or sbr.
then use one of the following 3 wall matting systems...durabase/ditra/homelux..
apply using a flexible rapidset adhesive using 5/6mm trowel to wall then matting system using manufacturers instructions..all the same imo..
then spf or spf rapidset an tile away. :wink:

Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 9:06 pm
by tictic
me again :lol:
ok for the floor
have you got a former yet?
well most formers are about 20mm in thickness..
so am taking your exsisting floor to be 18/22mm in thickness??
put your former on the floor pencil mark around it then cut out flooring "just the floor not any dwangs/noggins or joists" :wink:
reinforce joists get plumbing sorted then put former in.
secure all floor to joists,.. screws..
apply apd or sbr to floor.
again one of the 3 as above for " floor matting systems" folow mi.same as walls 5/6mm trowel spf/spf rapidset.
then bed in i/boards using spf... "brickbond" i/boards washers and screws as well.
lay out your cable/matting system the cover with 2part latex using PLASTIC trowel then when set tile away.....easy.... :lol:



bloody fingers r killin me ere.... :lol:

Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 9:11 pm
by tictic
wee tip also, when you fit the former in floor you will have a slight gap around it? infill with a semi dry mix of the 2 part latex..proir to doing rest of floor with the slc... :roll: am knackered now... :lol:

Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:21 pm
by Denzil
tictic wrote:wee tip also, when you fit the former in floor you will have a slight gap around it? infill with a semi dry mix of the 2 part latex..proir to doing rest of floor with the slc... :roll: am knackered now... :lol:
Hope the fingers have recovered and you can still deal with the ring pulls?

I had steered away from the green gyproc as I thought it would not be up to the job in the shower area? Aquapanel was the next choice but I was confused about the requirement for an airgap behind with folk saying you could infil stud with insulation (where is the airgap then?).
Basically I want to do the job right as the prospect of having to re do half a job fills me with joy! Obviously cost comes into the equation hence the dilema.
Can I over lay the floor with 6mm marmox or isn't it man enough?

Thanks, Denzil

Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:23 pm
by tictic
sorry denzil was away for a bit.
regarding insulation boards have just read my thread.."dont screw" thro them mate you will puncture the floor matting system.. :oops:
just bed them in... :-)

Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:30 pm
by tictic
ok for walls i would go for 12mm backerboards on the stud and tank the wet area.
for floor..how big an area are we talking about...do you need the underfloor heating??
if not go for a 6mm backerboard glued an screwed and tanked.. :wink:

Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:32 pm
by tictic
just opened my second ring pull :lol:

Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:36 pm
by tictic
regarding insulation behind i think its a.. no.. no..you need air flow, other might not agree.