Hole around socket & surface - how can I prep for tiling
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Hole around socket & surface - how can I prep for tiling
Hi,
I've never wall tiled before so please excuse any stupid questions.
I removed a tiled splashback in my kitchen last year and discovered a hole around a socket where the tiles had been cut and pushed to cover it. I managed to remove all the previous adhesive, but this has left the plasterboard a bit rough and in a couple of places we're down to the chalky stuff. I don't know if it has any bearing on your advice but I intend to tile using ceramic 100mm x 100mm under some wall cupboards, behind a cooker and behind the sink.
(1) I'm unsure of how to fill in the holes in prep for tiling.
(2) Will the plasterboard be ok to tile on in it's current state or will I have to prep further.
(3) At the top of where the last tiles were removed from there is some sort of thick paper. What should I do with this?
I bought the following for the job, if this is wrong please let me know:
Adhesive & Grout
I would love to get this tiled in the next few days and appreciate all guidance offered. Many thanks.
G.
I've never wall tiled before so please excuse any stupid questions.
I removed a tiled splashback in my kitchen last year and discovered a hole around a socket where the tiles had been cut and pushed to cover it. I managed to remove all the previous adhesive, but this has left the plasterboard a bit rough and in a couple of places we're down to the chalky stuff. I don't know if it has any bearing on your advice but I intend to tile using ceramic 100mm x 100mm under some wall cupboards, behind a cooker and behind the sink.
(1) I'm unsure of how to fill in the holes in prep for tiling.
(2) Will the plasterboard be ok to tile on in it's current state or will I have to prep further.
(3) At the top of where the last tiles were removed from there is some sort of thick paper. What should I do with this?
I bought the following for the job, if this is wrong please let me know:
Adhesive & Grout
I would love to get this tiled in the next few days and appreciate all guidance offered. Many thanks.
G.
- Attachments
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- Other sockets and paper ripped
- 3-Other sockets & Paper.jpg (45.42 KiB) Viewed 3606 times
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- Chalky Stuff exposed and General Surface condition
- 2.1-Chalky Stuff and Gen Surface.jpg (50.51 KiB) Viewed 3606 times
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- More Perspective on Socket
- 1.3-More perspective.jpg (54.06 KiB) Viewed 3606 times
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- Close-up on Socket, Cupboard removed temporarily
- 1.2-Closeup Cupboard Removed Temp.jpg (56.15 KiB) Viewed 3606 times
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- This is the Socket and the Cupboard I want to tile upto.
- 1.1-Where the cupboard will be.jpg (46.13 KiB) Viewed 3606 times
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Sorry, wrong adhesive mentioned in my 1st post.
I bought this adhesive
I am a bit confused on this as well. As from what I've read when tiliing plasterboard PVA shouldn't be used due it it becoming sticky in areas that may have moisture, but the instructions state I should mix 1 part PVA with 5 parts water and allow to dry.
Thanks,
G.
I bought this adhesive
I am a bit confused on this as well. As from what I've read when tiliing plasterboard PVA shouldn't be used due it it becoming sticky in areas that may have moisture, but the instructions state I should mix 1 part PVA with 5 parts water and allow to dry.
Thanks,
G.
- ultimatehandyman
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You can fill that hole at the side of the FCU with anything really, filler plaster etc. Or you can cut a piece of plasterboard and stick it in with some no more nails etc.
There seems to be some earth sleeving hanging out of the FCU, has the earthing wire come loose?
Where the deep holes/gouges are you can fill them with tile adhesive and let it dry.
The B&Q tile adhesive will be fine for a splashback, and if it tells you to prime the surface with PVA then that is what you should do. PVA will not cause a problem in a kitchen!
Make sure you switch off the electrics before going anywhere near the sockets
There seems to be some earth sleeving hanging out of the FCU, has the earthing wire come loose?
Where the deep holes/gouges are you can fill them with tile adhesive and let it dry.
The B&Q tile adhesive will be fine for a splashback, and if it tells you to prime the surface with PVA then that is what you should do. PVA will not cause a problem in a kitchen!
Make sure you switch off the electrics before going anywhere near the sockets
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Hi Only-Me,
sorry I didn't see your reply. How does the powdered compare to the B&Q readymix... I don't have the skills to skim the wall, should I be going for something like this.
Buildfix Rapid Set Floor and Wall Tile Adhesive Grey
I presume I could use it to fill the holes? If I didn't skim the whole area would I still need to prime with acrylic? Is this the primer
UniBond Plaster Primer Translucent
Cheers,
G.
sorry I didn't see your reply. How does the powdered compare to the B&Q readymix... I don't have the skills to skim the wall, should I be going for something like this.
Buildfix Rapid Set Floor and Wall Tile Adhesive Grey
I presume I could use it to fill the holes? If I didn't skim the whole area would I still need to prime with acrylic? Is this the primer
UniBond Plaster Primer Translucent
Cheers,
G.
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i would just cut out and replace any damaged plasterboard, looking at pics its dot/dabbed on??
for tile adhesive if your not good or tried tiling before then use a tubbed addy for this splashback.
would recomend bal blue star adhesive and a bagged flexibile grout, color of your choice.
if using tubbed addy no need for acrylic primer as the addy already has this in it, only ever prime subtrates when using a cement based addy (bagged)
5/6mm notched trowel for those size of tiles to.
for tile adhesive if your not good or tried tiling before then use a tubbed addy for this splashback.
would recomend bal blue star adhesive and a bagged flexibile grout, color of your choice.
if using tubbed addy no need for acrylic primer as the addy already has this in it, only ever prime subtrates when using a cement based addy (bagged)
5/6mm notched trowel for those size of tiles to.
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setting out if you have a hob centre this, should be 600mm then i start tiling from here...nothing worse than standing at cooker looking at differant size cuts at hob..if no hob then set out from edge of w/top walking tile to other end checking how your cuts will be around sockets and in the end corner.
best off.
min 2mm spacers also
best off.
min 2mm spacers also
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Thanks tictac, now just have to get an answer on my paint question and I'm away (until I get to the floor that is and then I'll have to come back here!). I'm a bit single sourced when it comes to diy suppliers and pretty much stuck with either online or b&q. I have tried some tile stores, but they tend to want twice the amount for what looks like the same thing. Nevermind, my fault for choosing to live on an island.