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Tile adhesive

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 7:55 pm
by fred99
I'm after some suggestions for decent, but not crazy expensive powdered floor tile adhesive and powdered grout in grey.

Im doing 18 square metres of kitchen floor tiles ontop of existing tiles, which are laid on a concrete floor.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 6:11 pm
by Simon Site Manager
Hi Fred,
On my bathroom, on a 22mm chipboard first floor, I used Excel Bond adhesive, flexible admix and Excel Bond grout on 300mmX300mm travertine with no probs so far.

S

Re: Tile adhesive

Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:19 pm
by marc1106
fred99 wrote:I'm after some suggestions for decent, but not crazy expensive powdered floor tile adhesive and powdered grout in grey.

Im doing 18 square metres of kitchen floor tiles ontop of existing tiles, which are laid on a concrete floor.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
sorry, but you really should remove the existing tiling over floor tiles causes SOOOOO many issues!!!!
anyhoo id use bal rapidsetflexi for all floor tiling! same with grout!

Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:21 pm
by fred99
Oh. What sort of issues?

Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:32 pm
by marc1106
fred99 wrote:Oh. What sort of issues?
height at thresholds for one, also if the kitchen is fitted then you have to make sure the appliances will fit in the openings after youve added 12-13mm of height to the floor!!!!!! with the new layer of tiles :thumbright:

Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:53 pm
by DIY_Johnny
traps on basin would be raised also I'd imagine if worktop raised and may not be possible to refit worktop.

that is if you tiled in underneath upright part

Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 10:18 pm
by marc1106
DIY_Johnny wrote:traps on basin would be raised also I'd imagine if worktop raised and may not be possible to refit worktop.

that is if you tiled in underneath upright part

sorry to be pedantic but basins arnt found in kitchens, just bathrooms and cloakrooms! and you would in effect be LOWERING the height of the worktop by double layering the floor!!! therefore causing issues with any undercounter appliances!

Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:19 pm
by tictic
how sound are the exsisting tiles fixed..any hollow sounds when tapping them,also how are exsisting tiles laid,bond or broken bond?
if your are tiling over tile keep spacing/grout apart from old tiles, and they will need to be cleaned very good..sugarsoap etc...


but as the other guys have said...lift them then you know the job will be done correctly. :wink:

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 1:39 pm
by fred99
How big a job is it to get the old tiles up and how do I remove the old adhesive?

sounds like a long job :cb

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 8:33 pm
by DIY_Johnny
marc1106 wrote:
DIY_Johnny wrote:traps on basin would be raised also I'd imagine if worktop raised and may not be possible to refit worktop.

that is if you tiled in underneath upright part

sorry to be pedantic but basins arnt found in kitchens, just bathrooms and cloakrooms! and you would in effect be LOWERING the height of the worktop by double layering the floor!!! therefore causing issues with any undercounter appliances!
Righto Marc!

What I mean is when I tiled my kitchen floor, I removed all units, tiled and then replaced all units again. Hence the sink (:lol:) and worktop was 25 - 30mm higher (ply + adhesive + tile). so the trap was raised against the outlet pipe going through the wall

Not a major deal as the a flexible connector sorted it out. The proper wasy was to cut all yunits I suoope but raising the work surface was not a issue really as ther walls (where the splashback was) was being tiled also

Make sense :scratch:

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 8:50 pm
by marc1106
fred99 wrote:How big a job is it to get the old tiles up and how do I remove the old adhesive?

sounds like a long job :cb
if you have an SDS drill with rotory stop then itll take half an hour to an hour with a tile removal chisel bit!
if you dont then its hands and knees, 2lb club hammer and 3inch bolster. remove a plinth or find an edge to start at! hold the bolster at a low angle against the edge of the tile and apply force with afore mentioned hammer
keep going till all old tiles are in bags awaiting car journey to tip! most of the old addy should come up with tiles scrape whats left on floor with a heavy duty scraper, if nessacery fill divots withe tile adhesive or pour a self levelling compound over the floor before tiling!!!!!!! tada :thumbright:

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 10:24 pm
by DIY_Johnny
I spend agggggesss trying to get old tiles off a masonary wall with hammer and bolster chisel. Eventually bought a SDS and tile chisel and got the whole lot own in 45mins !

Well worth the dosh in my view, (depends on how many tiles you have to do I suppose)

Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 8:12 pm
by fred99
Well I made a start today but decided (rightly or wrongly) against taking up the old tiles as they are all sound and the only height issues are with the two doorways. I used Palace one part rapid set flexi adhesive that a tiler mate got for me.

I got all the whole tiles laid today and I'll go back tomorrow to do all the cuts and hopefully get it grouted.

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 1:07 am
by marc1106
looking good so far fred, remember to take those doors off before you tile any further!

Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:13 am
by fred99
marc1106 wrote:looking good so far fred, remember to take those doors off before you tile any further!
The doors are off that need to be off mate :thumbright:

The one at the end leading into the garage is raised so that one's ok.