Page 1 of 1

Kitchen Tiling

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 12:21 pm
by lwasylow
Hi
It might be a stupid question but never done this before.
I will be installing new kitchen and put a tiles on the floor.

My question is: Does the all floor in the kitchen must be tiled or should i skip these parts where kitchen units will be installed (drawers,etc)

I think it should be all but wants to double check.

Many Thanks for help

Luc

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 12:50 pm
by thescruff
Optional, if the units are fitted, tile under the front edges, and cut the plinths to fit.

If it's an open space tile the lot.

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 3:51 pm
by tictic
as above. :thumbright:
bagged adhesive also...

concrete floor.. rapidset
concrete with ufh installed... flexible adhesive.
timber...flexible adhesive.

dont forget primer as well. :wink:

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:21 am
by lwasylow
Thanks all for answer.
It's fitted kitchen but there is some open spaces for free standing washing machine or fridge. Also I presume cutting the plinth would be much more work, and could possibly damage the units if not done professionally.

So the best option will be tile the whole lot.

As I have a wooden subfloor I would need also some MDF board screwed to it first and then use ,per your advice, the flexible adhesive?

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:58 am
by DIY_Johnny
I would definitly tile the lot if you haven't fixed the units yet as it means you can alter the kitchen in years to come, i.e. remove a cupboard and put in a dishwasher for example. Also I read that it makes it easier to see leaks as it will run along the tile, makes sense to me :wink:

You should use 12mm plywood (not MDF) screwed at 150mm centers, flexable tile adhesive. Alternatively use 9mm hardibacker or flooring aquapanel to keep the height down, tiles stick well to this.

I primed the ply with neat BAL SBR which is brilliant, its like walking on cellotape :lol: No need to prime aquapanel. Joints should be offset I believe

Also, you should plan setting it out, think and rethink where the tiles will go as you don't want a sliver at a door or a threshold, nor do you want the line of the tiles running off in the wrong direction.

I perfer thin (2 or 3mm) spacers as kitchen floors also get dirty. but if you are doing a coloured grout where its a feature maybe you want a thicker tile spacer.

I found a bag of plastic packers very helpful to level up tiles. you can get these from toolstation or screwfix. I'll bet pro tilers never uuse them but its handy for a novice like us to get the height correct.

Don't worry if it does look perfect, the tile grout improves it immensely

Also I really dislike the rapidset adhesive, it sets too quickly and I work far too slow. Most here I think don't have a problem with it but I usually end up having to cut as a I go and normal set is ideal for this

Finally; I am not a tiler, just reguritating what I read and my experience of DIY tiling. The lads can point out if I have it wrong :thumbright:

Good luck!

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 10:05 am
by lwasylow
Thank you very much. It was really helpfull.
I know all I need :)

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 10:08 am
by DIY_Johnny
Sorry I reread your post, I see you have the units fitted already, Cutting the plinths is not all that hard, i did it.

Its best to cut the top part, i.e. not the part that tips the floor as if you remove the facing if will go to sh#t when water gets at it. Although you can get those plastic plinth thingies (like you have at the botom of a shower screen) from B&Q, Made by Homelux I think.

To cut the plinth you need a circular saw and a plane. Electric planer is very useful. Hand plane is hard I found especially if you don't have a workbench You can get both of these cheap in toolstation / screwfix and will do the job

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:43 am
by thescruff
I the OP is fitting a new kitchen, and assume he means units as well.

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 12:38 pm
by DIY_Johnny
Your right scruff, I miss-read his reply :oops:

Re: Kitchen Tiling

Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 5:19 pm
by lwasylow
The units are still not fitted.
Sorry if you misread me.
I've found the flex adhesive like GranFix or BAL, assume that would be good.
Also which screews use for plywood, spax screws (I google it somewhere)?