www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk

Actually it's my second time tiling, but the first was a hearth with slate tiles of varying size/thickness so it was quite forgiving really.

Anyway - the scenario is this - I've been let down repeatedly by a tiler (and the tilers that did the floor/bathroom were shocking), so I've going to have a stab at this myself. Don't think I can do it any worse than the previous job.

So, I have a small kitchen, which is essential a U shape. The hob is on the bottom of the U, on one uprght I have the sink and a kitchen window, the other is just worksurface.

So, some questions in no particluar order:

1) I have some cement based tile adhesive left over from the hearth, can I use this?

2) I haven't checked, but presumable the distance from the worktop to the bottom of the cupboards is unlikely to be a nice multiple of tile drop - so I guess you hide the cut at the top and work from the bottom up.

3) I'm going to continue the tiling around from the bottom of the cupboard into the window reveal (the wall is 18" thick) - if there is a cut at the bottom of the cupboard what do you think is the best thing to do there.

4) The window reveal is a feature in itself (it's an angle reveal about 18" deep - 1870s cottage!) - I would think it makes sense to take the centre from this reveal and work left and right from the centre. Thoughts?

5) Similar question regarding the hob - take a centre from that and work left and right from there? (the other wall doesn't matter too much since there isn't a feature there.

6) I'm going to screw some MDF to the window sill to give me a less stupid cut to the worktop. As it stands it's about 30mm, with the extra 25mm of the MDF it's getting close to a full tile (from mempry they're 100mm tiles). Could I use the cement adhesive there or do I need sometihng else?

7) The external corners of the reveal I plan to deal with by using beading. How do you deal with internal corners, push one right in and overlap?

I think that's it for now but I'm sure I'll thnk of some other questions.

Cheers

Rob

I will do answers as per your numbers.....
1) yes. If it as an open bag, then no.
2) Yes cut at top.........worktop to underside of wall unit should be 480mm.
3) cut tile around cupboard so that wall to reveal is full tile height for top course.
4 + 5) setting out is something best done for real rather than over the net. Could make window centre and also hob. depends on tiles etc and how cuts work out. So there isn't really a hard and fast set in stone rule (or in your case ceramic)
6) The nearest that MDF needs to get to your window is the shop it is currently in!!! Use plasterboard to build it up.
7) beading is for external corners. Internals you cut tiles in with a couple of mm gap and then silicone the joint.

Just to add to ROC's very good reply:-
1. Agreed, though if its rapid setting you may prefer a standard setting one if you're not very fast.
2. Agreed but check that the worktops are level.
3. Agreed. Take off any light pelmet first then cut back and refit after.
4 & 5. Agreed. Draw a line down from the centre of the hood/window and check setting out with a tape measure or staff. Start with a grout line on this centre line. Take into account awkward cuts at sockets, ends of runs, wall cupboards etc and if you have any, try the set out with the middle of the tile on the centre line instead to see if any better. Also bear in mind you can adjust the tile positions with different spacers though normally I'd go for 2mm.
6. Agreed.
7. Agreed.