Downlighters Under Insulation

Jaeger_S2k · Post by **Jaeger_S2k** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 12:19 am

I know it's been raised before but????

I've just finished (earlier today) fitting the insulation and wiring first fix.

I'll get some pics up later.

The insulation is 300 mm thick, actually it's 2 x Castle Cosy Wrap 175mm and it runs right across where I would be installing down lighters.

I'm sure the sparks have come across this, just how do you deal with the heat problem?

I've got the opportunity to deal with it pre boarding, which I'm hoping to start tomorrow, yeah I know last minute Charlie, but it just occurred to me.

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 3:41 am

I have recently fitted downlighters and have moved the insulation until I can find something to cover them. I was thinking of some clay drainage tiles cut in half so that you have a clay tube about 6 inches long to fit over the lights, but I think it was rich that said you can use fire hoods?

Jaeger_S2k · Post by **Jaeger_S2k** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 7:13 am

Yes but, being under the latest (well up to Oct 06) I have to comply with Part L in that...

Insulation is now used extensively to meet the
needs of both Parts E and L, and the
requirements of Continuity of Insulation mean
that down lighters that require insulation to be
removed, to prevent overheating, should not be
used.

So I guess the hunt is on for a suitable light like these http://www.snaplite.co.uk/

Rich-Ando · Post by **Rich-Ando** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 1:41 pm

until somebody can show me a compromise Allan, i will simply remove the insulation around a spot light every time no matter what the regs say.
i would rather take my chances with contravening a reg than burning my house down.
use proper fire rated fitting too, it helps. i don't personally buy them from the listing i have shown but i can't get a pic from the wholesalers so screwfix will do for now.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 0&ts=31770

Jaeger_S2k · Post by **Jaeger_S2k** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 4:38 pm

I'm leaning to your way of thinking Rich for safety but this insulation stuff isn't flammable. Also the lights people are saying these lights are designed to sit under insulation but that the transformer should be sited in a vented area? If that's not possible then as far away from the light fitting as possible. But to get it into a vented area it would have to be a first fix, but one of the selling points is that they can be installed through the light fitting hole? My arm couldn't clear the insulation and I don't think my 'sculptured muscular' arms would go through far enough.

The standard lamp used is an Osram Decostar Alu. which reflects the heat from the fitting back into the room. The resulting low rear temperature enables Snaplite to be in contact with the insulation materials in the void without causing overheating problems. It is important, of course, for the transformer to be located in a well ventilated position.This is allowed for in the length of the pre-cabled connection between the transformer and down lighter.

All down lighters are supplied complete with pre-cabled transformer and appropriate lamp. All components can be installed from below the ceiling.

BC told me today that the lights could be fitted with the insulation directly above. It just seams technology is moving forward and I've not got the faith yet?

How would you get round the transformer being 'in a vented area'?

I could first fix it clear of insulation but if it failed and needed servicing replacing, take the ceiling down. But then wouldn't placing it at first fix fail to meet the criteria, if it's a mechanical connection it should be accessible? How does getting through 350mm of insulation through a 68mm hole with 1 arm pass as accessible?

I'm going in circles again

And to top it all, I forgot (good on him for spotting it though) the extractor for the Utility Room, just ordered 2 vented tiles for the roof (1 for the over hob extractor), as I don't want vents in the faces of the walls (£28 each plus VAT)