www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk

Numerous posts on here but I am a bit baffled

I need to cut a 45 degree corner piece of 40mm solid beech square edged (40mm staves) from a 2m length by 960mm deep so that I get the 780mm depth into a 45 degree corner. I realise this could be an expensive mistake In hindsight I wish I'd gone for cheap laminate

I thought I understood the basics but the instructions I have with my jig only seem to cover 600mm worktops.

My cabinet layout is all equal and gives me a distance of 1022mm square from wall to edge of adjoining cabinets on either run allowing for fillers either side of the cooker. (The illustration I have indicates 1050mm cabinet layout including fillers)

Is there a formula for working out where the jig is placed for various non standard layouts? I have done my first female 'hockey stick' cut and set the jig up for the second one but as a check I measured what I will be left with on the front face including the 9mm allowance for the 30mm guide which will be 524mm surely this can't be right even allowing for the kick-out from the 'hockey stick' I have a bit of spare material on that side of the worktop so now is the time to ask.....

I'm getting ready to cut .......

I said I'd have it done by the time the Mrs was home

Can't help, apart from have a practice on an offcut of ply or similar....However as you posted at 5.40 and it's now just gone 7....how did it go??

Jeez wine~o is that the time .... been sat hoping someone would give me a brainwave .... might just cut it oversize and nibble bits off .... expensive sawdust though

Hockey stick???? Do you mean a 'Masons Mitre'?. If so, why?

No need for a masons mitre on solid worktops, they are butted up due to having square edge profiles. Solids which have a profiled edge don't even receive full masons mitres but are done with a partial masons mitre.


You don't need a jig for the cuts but a straight edge securely clamped to the worktop.

royaloakcarpentry

thanks for commenting. I believe the professionals call them mason mitre the leaflet I got with the worktops referred to them as 'hockey sticks'

This is what I have done the first two cuts with but the router found it hard going .... 10 passes at approx 5mm a pass

I realise I am a bit out of my depth now but have started so will try and finish ....

Will these mason mitres match up with a square profile

This thread may be moved to the rogues gallery

only a masons mitre male and female will work
or a 22.5 assuming dead equal

your 22.5 join will be floating in mid air at the back half way across the triangles the change off wall direction should match up with these points otherwise one or other bit off worktop will have to be deeper back to front to fill the gap

big-all

yeah I THINK I know what you mean that's what I intended a male/female mitre but have probably made the job a lot harder than it should have been .... I intend to put some baton as extra support at the back in the voids and some careful measurements to get as close to the wall with a small expansion gap .....

first and last time I do a corner hob

could be wrong but i think you will be around 2 inches short on the corner unit worktop
is there a gap between the corner unit and the back wall [i know there is ] the extra distance is what you are short

Currently trying to salvage the worktops .....

I must admit I had my doubts what I was doing was right hence the post ...... I have only cut one worktop before and that had a rounded profile .... I mad e the mistake despite royaloakcarpentry giving me a big hint .... I just kept trying to convince myself that it would be OK so persevered ....

I have now trimmed the corner piece down again with the intention of butt joints as suggest ...... and the first length of worktop ..... The corner joins wont be where they're supposed to be due to the corner worktop now being shorter at the front than it should be but hopefully it wont look too bad on the eye

I'm just trying to sort out the slots for the joining bolts ... trying to get them lined up but not using the standard jig layout as the cabinets are weak enough without chopping the braces out if I can avoid it .....

I will try and gets some pics posted of the 'progress'

Anyone want some top quality sawdust

£400 a bin bag

Moderator - you can move this to the rogues gallery .... it will probably be more appropriate when you see the photos .... maybe someone else can learn from my mistake

Could be wrong, but I think you will need a "Breakfast bar" depth of matching worktop to do what you intend..put a straight edge across from where youve cut your 600mm w/tops square, then measure the distance back..??

wine~o

sorry I hadn't finished the post .... brain aching

I THINK I am OK on the depth as it WAS a 960mm deep in the corner and adjoining sides WERE 620 deep

the router is getting some breaking in

big-all cheers

could be wrong but i think you will be around 2 inches short on the corner unit worktop
is there a gap between the corner unit and the back wall the extra distance is what you are short

______________________________________

I think I should be OK as I had a 960mm deep corner worktop to start with as the gap I had to fill was about 180mm .... I will fix support baton for that corner of the wall for extra support .....

Virgin wrote:

I will try and gets some pics posted of the 'progress'

Anyone want some top quality sawdust

£400 a bin bag

Moderator - you can move this to the rogues gallery .... it will probably be more appropriate when you see the photos .... maybe someone else can learn from my mistake

Nice try...until you put the photos up, there is still hope for the show case gallery..