Restore an old parquet floor
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- Andy Davies
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Restore an old parquet floor
Whilst lifting up a bit of carpet recently to paint a door frame I found what I think was the original parquet floor from when the house was built (1928) covering all of the downstairs (hall, dining room, lounge - possibly the kitchen but there's currently cork tiles glued down).
I think it could be pine, and the blocks are very approx. 11"x3" (about 1" thick) in a herringbone pattern glued down with what looks like tar.
She who must be obeyed has decided that we (i.e. me) are going to get rid of the carpets and restore the floor in time for Christmas - she's getting a grand piano and thinks it would look great on a solid floor. We were discussing getting new carpets and had even decided on colours etc but now she's adamant that this is what we're doing.
It seems in fairly good condition, there's a few tiny holes at the edges where the gripper strip was nailed down and it's very dirty but seems to be mostly sound.
I was planning to do the following:
1) re-fix any loose blocks with gripfill / no more nails
2) Use a "Trio" sander and edge sander from www.floorsanderhire.com (apologies if posting a link breaks forum rules in any way) - apparently this is designed for parquet floors. I'll fill any little holes with the stuff you mix with sawdust.
3) Varnish in Ronseal Diamond Hard gloss (the only floor varnish I could find in B&Q)
I've sanded down one of the loose blocks and given it a few coats of varnish by hand and it looks pretty good with a nice deep shine
As you've no doubt guessed, I've never done this sort of thing before and if anyone has any tips or ideas to stop me making a total mess of it I'll be most grateful. Particularly if you think I'm doing it completely wrong and the above method is stupid please let me know.
Thanks in advance, and apologies for the long post
Andy
I think it could be pine, and the blocks are very approx. 11"x3" (about 1" thick) in a herringbone pattern glued down with what looks like tar.
She who must be obeyed has decided that we (i.e. me) are going to get rid of the carpets and restore the floor in time for Christmas - she's getting a grand piano and thinks it would look great on a solid floor. We were discussing getting new carpets and had even decided on colours etc but now she's adamant that this is what we're doing.
It seems in fairly good condition, there's a few tiny holes at the edges where the gripper strip was nailed down and it's very dirty but seems to be mostly sound.
I was planning to do the following:
1) re-fix any loose blocks with gripfill / no more nails
2) Use a "Trio" sander and edge sander from www.floorsanderhire.com (apologies if posting a link breaks forum rules in any way) - apparently this is designed for parquet floors. I'll fill any little holes with the stuff you mix with sawdust.
3) Varnish in Ronseal Diamond Hard gloss (the only floor varnish I could find in B&Q)
I've sanded down one of the loose blocks and given it a few coats of varnish by hand and it looks pretty good with a nice deep shine
As you've no doubt guessed, I've never done this sort of thing before and if anyone has any tips or ideas to stop me making a total mess of it I'll be most grateful. Particularly if you think I'm doing it completely wrong and the above method is stupid please let me know.
Thanks in advance, and apologies for the long post
Andy
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- Tryanything
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Hi Andy
Sounds like you got a good result (Original floor)
Firstly rebed any loose blocks using a blowtorch by warming up the bitumen on both surfaces being carful not to scorch the timber
Dependant on how bad the floor is (dents, scratch's, dirt ) you may need to use a Hummel belt sander for the first sand, a Trio is more of a finishing sander
Pull out or punch in any nails before before sanding
If its bad use Hummel and 60,80, then 100 then finish off with Trio 120 papers
If good use Trio and 80,100 then finish off wish 120 papers
When finished sanding with 100 papers empty the dust bags as the next lot of dust from the 120 papers you want to save for mixing with the binder/sealer
Mix the dust with the binder/sealer and go over the whole floor using a spreader or the edge of a plaster trowel
Resand using 120 papers back to bare wood again
Have cup of tea and biscuit
Good hoover up
Give floor first coat of floor varnish (Mega, Traffic, Pacific) using brush tray roller and pole dont do it in squares do it in lines from wall to wall keeping a wet edge all the time, DONT do all the cutting in with the brush in one go only as much needed to keep a wet edge
2-3 hours later you should be able to give it a very light hand rub down with 120 paper to get rid of any bits (and that pubic hair dont know where thay come from theres always one)
Good hoover up
2 more coats of varnish hoover between coats
Put felt pads on feet of all funiture
Dont put furniture onto floor until 24 hours after last coat of varnish
Dont put carpets or rugs onto floor for 7 days
Treat yourself to a beer youv'e done a fine job
Dont forget to post a picture in the showcase (before and after shots)
Sounds like you got a good result (Original floor)
Firstly rebed any loose blocks using a blowtorch by warming up the bitumen on both surfaces being carful not to scorch the timber
Dependant on how bad the floor is (dents, scratch's, dirt ) you may need to use a Hummel belt sander for the first sand, a Trio is more of a finishing sander
Pull out or punch in any nails before before sanding
If its bad use Hummel and 60,80, then 100 then finish off with Trio 120 papers
If good use Trio and 80,100 then finish off wish 120 papers
When finished sanding with 100 papers empty the dust bags as the next lot of dust from the 120 papers you want to save for mixing with the binder/sealer
Mix the dust with the binder/sealer and go over the whole floor using a spreader or the edge of a plaster trowel
Resand using 120 papers back to bare wood again
Have cup of tea and biscuit
Good hoover up
Give floor first coat of floor varnish (Mega, Traffic, Pacific) using brush tray roller and pole dont do it in squares do it in lines from wall to wall keeping a wet edge all the time, DONT do all the cutting in with the brush in one go only as much needed to keep a wet edge
2-3 hours later you should be able to give it a very light hand rub down with 120 paper to get rid of any bits (and that pubic hair dont know where thay come from theres always one)
Good hoover up
2 more coats of varnish hoover between coats
Put felt pads on feet of all funiture
Dont put furniture onto floor until 24 hours after last coat of varnish
Dont put carpets or rugs onto floor for 7 days
Treat yourself to a beer youv'e done a fine job
Dont forget to post a picture in the showcase (before and after shots)
There would be less trouble in the world
if l had not had six daughters
if l had not had six daughters
- Andy Davies
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I've got the day of work tomorrow and Friday and the sander's arriving tomorrow morning.
There's about 35 m2 to do and I'll take photos as I go along (as long as I don't destroy the house I'll try and post them tomorrow afternoon so you can see how far I've got)
Thanks for the advice, wish me luck!! (I'll need it)
There's about 35 m2 to do and I'll take photos as I go along (as long as I don't destroy the house I'll try and post them tomorrow afternoon so you can see how far I've got)
Thanks for the advice, wish me luck!! (I'll need it)
- Andy Davies
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- Tryanything
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Andy Davies wrote:Quick question, what does "cutting in with the brush" mean?
I've got the feeling I'm going to look a bit thick for not knowing this
Thanks in advance,
Andy
Varnish up to the skirting where you cant reach with the roller
There would be less trouble in the world
if l had not had six daughters
if l had not had six daughters