chipboard flooring

time served · Post by **time served** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 6:10 pm

Can n e 1 tell me the most effective way of lifting/removing nails from chipboard flooring as it's doing me cap in!! tried to remove one nail using claw hammer now nail has no head left on it, need to remove so i can get to pipe work beneath!!
Thanks for n e replies in advance ;p

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 7:20 pm

It's difficult when they are nailed down, in the past I have always screwed them down.

The sheets damage so easily that if you are not careful large chunks end up missing!

If you can get a couple of the nails out using a claw hammer and pair of molegrips, then you can often lever the whole board up including the nails, then just remove the nails with the hammer.

A lot of the time no thought is given about lifting the boards as it is now common practice to install the floor before the pipes and then install pipes/cables from underneath, before the ceiling is dry lined!

This can be made even more difficult if the skirting board is tight against the floor boards!

tim'll fix it · Post by **tim'll fix it** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 7:49 pm

you used to be able to buy a kit from screwfix for cutting out holes in the chipboards and then bungs to go in them, never used one so cant recommend it.

Chipboard flooring is really cheap just cut some out and then replace it

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 7:56 pm

I have seen that on screwfix also- http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 4&id=77885

You cut the hole and then use a cover- http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 2&id=10648

Could be useful if using plastic pipe, but not much use if using copper!

time served · Post by **time served** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:15 pm

thanxs for the replies, have seen holesaw kit already but i agree not much use to me, some of the boards also go under the walls into the next room so i have to be selective in which boards i try to lift.

I will be installing downlights to will it be easier/cheaper to just rip down the ceiling and run all my cables and do all the required pipe work(copper)
and then replace ceiling??

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 10:25 am

No, definately not!

That would make you ton's of work and extra cost.

From above is the way to go, only do it from underneath in new builds

time served · Post by **time served** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 1:13 pm

just a quick visit to let ya all know how im getting on.
Managed to remove remainder of nails, tuff little suckers(ribbed variety!!) silly boards are lipped on three edges looks like i'll have to get a circular saw to trim the edges so board can be lifted out easily.
c u all soon. 8-)

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 11:36 pm

I'm glad I am not doing the job you are doing as it seems like a lot of hard work

I'd get a few disposable dust masks, you don't want to be breathing in saw dust, not trying to mother you or anything but better safe than sorry

time served · Post by **time served** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 10:45 am

only got one board up at the moment, trying to juggle work and having to move in to the house has had its own problems......dissconnected the radiator downstairs in the kitchen but one of the valves don't turn off fully, so i have a leaking valve on a microbore inlet, does anyone know the correct procedure to drain a central heating system so i can remove the leaking valve and solder a male pulg end stop onto the microbore pipe? :mad:

time served · Post by **time served** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 11:08 am

i've read the section on draining the central heating system, very useful but where do i loacate the bleeding valve and will the header tank be located in the loft if so whats it look like??
sorry peeps but have never had central heating before only just got the hot water sorted out

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 1:21 pm

The header tank (if there is one) will either be in the loft or could be in a cupboard in the bathroom or in one of the upstairs rooms.

The drain off valve will be on the lowest point of the system, often it is placed on a radiator near to a door, to ease bleeding. Sometimes they are placed beneath ground level floors (if wooden) and sometimes there is not one!

If there is not one you could use a self cutting tap like this- http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how_t ... ng_tap.htm then attach the hosepipe and drain the system. Afterwards fit a drain off valve for future use.

AEG · Post by **AEG** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 6:24 am

I've only just joined so I missed the start of this thread, but I think I can add advice in relation to the original question about pulling nails for future reference (better late than never!)

I bought a Bahco Nail Puller a few years ago, and although it was expensive, it has proved to be a good investment and I've used it many times. (It should also be possible to hire one.) See http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=20034

In use, its sliding hammer (handle) causes the jaws to penetrate the wood on either side of the nail head, then you simply lever the nail out. It will even pull nails without heads!

AEG

BobProperty · Post by **BobProperty** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 6:35 pm

That's a heck of a tool (and price), but it's going on my wish list.

time served · Post by **time served** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 1:06 pm

Nice tool!!!
Soz it's been quite on the reply front, NTL managed to dissconnect my telephone & internet for almost 6 weeks!!
But i'm up and running again now

Hinton Heating · Post by **Hinton Heating** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 11:32 pm

I've one of those nail pullers, very useful.

With chipboard. I usually cut the wood using a circular, set to 0.5mm LESS than the wood thickness. I cut along joist/nail lines, just inside nails, so the nails are left behind, but takes up a piece of board joist width apart, and similar if taking a strip across joists, take a bit up about 400mm wide, between nails..

The idea is to leave all the nails in place & cut between then. This is plenty wide enough for a pipe run.

8-)