upstand and splashback

[Burnz0]

I've got my kitchen coming on the 12th and had the fitter out at the weekend to look at the job and quote for the work. When I asked him about fitting the stainless steel splashback he said he wasn't keen as you can't cut them easily so i'm now wondering what to do. I've got a laminate worktop with matching upstands, which i assume will have to stop either side of the hob (and not go all the way behind?). He suggested using tiles instead - which i was never particularly keen on due to the grout line between counter top and wall. If i do go for tiles will it look odd with the upstand - especially behind the hob and would i be better doing without the upstand all together?
Ideally i'd go for the plastic/acrylic splashback all the way across but it looks quite pricey and i wouldn;t be comfortable fitting it myself. On the basis of what the fitter has said i wouldn't want to fit the stainless steel splashback myself either. I did question why he'd need to cut it though - the difference between the worktop and wall unit will be about 700mm so i can get a precut one of the internet - or failing that, could he just slide the worktop up behind the wall unit and base units (the wall units will be on battens anyway to bring them out for the boiler depth) - that way no cuts will be needed.
I can't tell whether he's just being difficult but either way im not that keen on changing my plans unless im convinved the new idea will look good.
Regardless of using tiles or the stainless steel, assuming i keep the upstand, how to the two meet - if they are difference depths and you can see the edge of the upstand does that look odd/rubbish?

[wine~o]

I assume you are having a freestanding cooker ??

In which case I would be looking at a mitre to close off the ends of the upstands and fitting the stainless steel flat to the wall...

[Burnz0]

nope, an integrated cooker with the hob above as normal

[royaloakcarpentry]

still the same....................upstands with returned mitre and splashback down to worktop.

You don't need to cut a stainless splashback, unless you are supplying a generic sheet of stainless steel to be cut to size.

[joinerjohn]

As ROC says. S/S splashbacks usually come at 600mm x 750mm . 750mm is about the usual height for the extractor above the hob. Shouldn't be a problem for the fitter, really.

[wine~o]

returned mitre /mitre return.. that was the phrase that was alluding me earlier...

[Burnz0]

due to the height that the boiler's been set at I'm not going to manage the full 750mm standard gap - it will be closer to 700-720mm (I need to find a suitable extractor that can be fitted at 700mm or even 650mm). For this reason I can either get it cut to size, which I won't know exactly until he tells me exactly where he can fit the cupboards ie. how close to the underside of the boiler, or I can get it a little bit bigger. I'm not too clued up on how cupboards are fitted to the wall but since they'll be on battens I thought it might be possible for him to slide the splashback up behind them that way it wouldn't matter if it was slightly bigger and he wouldn't need to both with cutting it?
He may just be being awkward but I'm reluctant to change my plans around a splashback that he should be able to fit!

[joinerjohn]

Are you seriously, telling us that the boiler is above where the hob is going?? I'd suggest you go back to whoever planned this kitchen and ask them to change jobs.

[Burnz0]

nope, not quite. The boiler's in the corner with a 700unit in between that and the oven/hob so no issues there! I've got a thing about not liking the step up to the extractor unit or the big gap above the wall units so to get around my cupboards are going to be set relatively high - high enough so that I can create the minimum gap between the worktop and extractor for the manufacturers requirements. Possibly a stupid idea but i'm going for it now either way.
The boiler's already fitted so depending how close he can come to the bottom of it this will determine exactly where the wall units go so it's not going to be precise until fitted meaning i won't know the exact size of the splashback unless i opt for a bigger one and chop down/fit behind the wall units.

[royaloakcarpentry]

Tape it up and cut it to size with a jigsaw and suitable blade.......Splashbacks ain't exactly quality sheet stainless.

[Colour Republic]

so all your wall units are going to be around 700mm off the worktops

Seriously if you ever want to sell the house I think you should reconsider

[Burnz0]

i dare say i might want to sell it at some point but for now i'd rather set them where i want them. I realise the top shelf isn't going to be that accessible but you just put things you dont use that often up there. The plan has always been to one or two open shelves underneath the cupboards - which will essentially be the same thing as leaving the cupboards lower down but hopefully without it feeling so boxed in. Also, if i had of gone for just a row of top boxes which seems to be the trend then these would be set higher than the lower part of my cupboards - the difference being i've gained an additional amount of cupboard space above, albeit not as accessible as is ideal.
I'm curious to know how all the pictures i see on the internet with one row of continuous cupboards without any step up works unless they have the cupboards below the regulation height for the extractor??

[Colour Republic]

Because they are half height cabinets so the tops of them are still in line with where a standard unit would sit so the lines of the kitchen still flow. Further more that style of linear kitchen only really works in large kitchens which often have tall larder units which provide the bulk of the storage.

It really is poor kitchen design to set standard units so high, even with your boiler being set high there would have been a way around it to make it aesthetically pleasing AND functional.

[aeromech3]

with matching upstands, which i assume will have to stop either side of the hob (and not go all the way behind?)

Mine does, though reduced under the serving hatch, tiles are 1990's style just could not bring ourselves to get rid them

[Burnz0]

I don't think you can say it is poor kitchen design just because you don't happen to like it. Agreed it is slightly higher than is ideal and that the top shelves won't be readily accessible... BUT by adding a shelf underneath I am replicating what would be the lower shelf if fitted at normal height, albeit without doors on. if anything, i'm increasing storage as the top inaccessible part can still be used - the alternative would be to simply stack things on the tops of the wall cabinets which I'd argue is less aesthetically pleasing, prone to dust etc. When set at "normal" height there often isn't enough space to fit large appliances, the inside of the worktop isn't that usable etc etc. I am not saying my design should be adopted by all but the normal height isn't perfect, just the best compromise given the conditions, that's not to say it should be forced on everyone
jeebus, is seems that the majority of tradesman i meet (not everyone on here i should) seem to know everything about everything