Getting to grips with worktops.

[danielsuperchef]

Ok so most of the plumbing is done in the kitchen and I'm going to order some 600x40mm worktops which will come cut to size (length), so what I need is some advice on cutting the worktop to drop my sink and hob into it. I.e. specifically, which is the best type saw (that won't cost the earth!!) to use and any tips on technique that wont ruin an expensive surface (and get me shot by the wife!)

Cheers guys.
Dan

[ultimatehandyman]

I normally use a jigsaw for cutting out sinks and hobs.

A cheap jigsaw will make this very hard work and so try and get a branded one.

At the least I would get a bosch green jigsaw, or if you can afford a bosch blue or a dewalt.

You can use pendulum motion, which will make it much easier to cut, but switch pendulum motion off at the corners (if rounded)

Get a good quality blade for the jigsaw, Bosch progressor blades are very good. You can get a blade that cuts on the down stroke rather then the up stroke and this prevents chipping of the laminate.

[danielsuperchef]

Thanks, made a note of those. So do you start the cutting with a drill hole??

[chippymike]

drill a 10mm hole in all 4 corners then you can cut it out a with jig saw

[Teabag]

Deffo get the best jigsaw you can afford, it makes all the difference having pendulum forward action. Makes the cutting of 40mm thick tops so much easier... and is less stress on the Jigsaw. reducing heat transfered to the blade making for a better vertical cut. (personally I wouldnt use a cordless type unless its a trade machine with decent Ah on the batteries)
Oh make sure the blades are long enough to still be exposed on the highest part of the upward stroke when cutting.
you will possibly have to mark out from the sink its self, not all come with a templete. (hobs usually come with templetes I think).
Turn the sink upside down draw around it, then mark inwards, for the seal and clamp holding edge with a little clearence.
use the packaging to cut a templete if need be, so you can get the hole correct before you cut the top. test fit with the clamps on. its cheaper replacing card until its correct...
like the person above has already said, drill holes in the corners , BUT be carefull, not all sinks finish at a point in the corners, some have larger radius's and if you were to drill a 10mm hole in the corners on this type you would be seeing the holes after installation is done lol... drill a lage enough hole in the corner to allow your jigsaw blades to fit.
Dont make the Cutout too tight a fit to the rim which the clamps fit, as the sink will NOT fit easily once the clamps are attached. If its too tight to fit down on the top flat you may chip the laminate pulling the sink free of the hole.

Personally when I have cut sink holes in tops, I cut them in its finished location.
Thats my own prefrence, as its much less chance of breaking the top when trying it to install heavy tops between walls.
but everyone to there own methods. Where possible, keep the cut out holes away from any Joints,(meaning masons mitre's with bolt routings)
as this will make the top very weak in that area. sounds obvious huh...
well you would be suprised how many people get plans made in DIY stores n the sink is next to the joints...

Tip,
not all fitters seem to do this but should!
once the hole is cut for the sink, and it fits as it should. seal the exposed chipboard with somthing to prevent water ingress (such as silicone rubbed in) if theres ever a failure around the sinks seal, this will hopfully prevent you having to replace the tops due to swelling, and blown laminate.

sorry if all that seems obvious, but who knows what people actually know....
good luck

[davek0974]

...well you would be suprised how many people get plans made in DIY stores and the sink is next to the joints...

I have that exact problem. The sink is near a corner joint in my new kitchen. I have the joint template and router etc. What is the best advice in this situation?

I can't move the sink due to plumbing restraints etc. The right-hand leg of the corner has the sink and the left-hand has the hob so the joint will be next to one or the other.

Its a U-shape layout so i guess the back of the U is the first top to go in with the female mitres, which means the join goes near the sink.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Dave

[danielsuperchef]

Thanks alot Teabag, Sounds great advice, the sink is ceramic and I couldn't find any clamps so I'm guessing ceramics and clamps don't mix!!


I'll deffo use the packaging and try to match template on that first

Dan

[ultimatehandyman]

Good point teabag about sealing the cut edge, I forgot to mention that

I normally paint a little exterior wood glue onto the cut edge.

[Teabag]

davek0974

The female cut for the left hand side will need to have the worktop upside down, so you cut into the postform (front edge covered in laminate), if you were to rout into the worktop with it the normal way up you would rip the laminate as the router bit exits, resulting in a new board being required.
Same goes for any cuts required when the router bit will need to exit the postform, they need to be made so you enter the postform due to cutter rotation and breakout effect.

The only advise regards joint close to the sink cutout is be damn carefull handling the top once its cut.
also make the bolt hole routing as short as you need it in length, so it has more bulk in that area, you might need to cut the bolt fixing down a bit but do what you need for the best results.

If your cutting a biscuit line or slots, deffo put a few in for added strength, but make sure the biscuit fit is not too tight as the biscuits are designed to swell a little with the application of glue.
But they are not necessary if you have that part supported with a cupboard directly below the join for both tops, they are mainly only at risk during instalation and while the glue is setting.
If I understood correctly, you could cut the joints first, fix together, then do the sink cutout in situ, thats what I would personally do.

The other option would be, (depending how much worktop you got)
dont use masons mitres, just do a mitre into the corners, (I'll use the term 45 degree cuts, but I mean bisect the angle of the corner, as we all know walls in houses are never true lol... this would make the tops stronger keeping strength in the board and moving the bolt routings away from the sink cutout.
this type of cut is easily made with the router, as long as the top is supported and cant drop causing breakage of the laminate.

hope that helps a little, and good luck in the method you choose.

[davek0974]

Thanks Teabag and apologies to Danielsupechef for hijacking your thread but it was so relevant to my situation.

I have read the destructions on the mitre template and know that i always need to cut from left to right with the router and to keep the P/F edge on the left to stop rip-out, it also showed which edges need to be cut upside down as well.

I have 4 x 3mtr tops to fit with a total of 4 mitres to cut.

I have studied the estimators plans again and have found that i should be able to shift the sink 3" away from the join so will do that.

Dave K

[danielsuperchef]

Instructions I think davek!!
Anyway speaking of destruction, I wasn't confident enough to hack into my £300 or so pound worktops so I got a pro in to do it for me. Better safe than sorry!!

[Teabag]

Fair play, thanks for the update hope all looks as good as you intended :)