Evolution Rage3 silding mitre saw

[ultimatehandyman]

I now own three Evolution saws, I have the Rage circular saw and the Rage3 b chop saw, both of which I bought when they were half price. I now also have the Rage3 Sliding mitre saw and I have to say that it is a massive improvement over the Rage3 b chop saw.

I do quite bit of metalwork in my workshop now and I try to avoid using the abrasive disk machines as they produce a lot of fine particles that I seem to be coughing up for the next few days, so a machine that can cut a decent thickness of metal without an abrasive disk is much welcomed. Obviously I could wear a dust mask but then your glasses steam up and you can't see what you are doing!

Yesterday I filmed the machine in use and it performed very well- way above my expectations-




I know that when cutting metal these machines can be noisy and generate a lot of hot swarf but I was seriously impressed with it, especially when it cut the 6mm thick mild steel plate. From now on I'll be reaching for this machine and will leave the metal cutting chop saw where it is

[Inky Pete]

Mrs Inky bought me the Evolution Stealth for my birthday this year, I think that's basically the same saw but painted black.

Been well impressed with it cutting wood, copper pipe, wardrobe rail, small square box section steel, and the saws own rear fence when I tried a bevel cut without moving it out of the way!

[Razor]

Chez I'm seriously thinking of buying one for a big job coming up. From the demos you have done and the ones we saw at the show I'm sure it'll munch its way through unistrut!!

I was wondering whether you had any studding you could test it on mate. Specifically whether the cut is clean enough to put the nut on afterwards?

And yes I know you can put it on before and spin it off afterwards to clean the thread but the cuts you showed me looked clean enough!!

Cheers

[steviejoiner74]

I think these saws do have their place,however they are not for a serious woodworker or carpenter.
The cut isn't clean or accurate on timber and most of the components are cheap plastic.
I agree it's good for cutting wood with metal or nail embedded timber but as a stand alone mitre saw for cutting timber alone it's rank in my opinion.

[Razor]

I saw the new one, at Chez's the other day and it's built much better than the old models. I'd agree that it's probably not the most accurate around and that the clamps etc look a little flimsy but the most of r and gearbox are very good quality and the blades are superb.

My big saw is lovely to use but not one I use enough to keep in the van unless I'm doing a specific job. There's a lot to be said for a relatively cheap tool that does the job well enough and is disposable enough to totally abuse.

Horses for courses obviously a chippy needs a really accurate machine (to make up for their lack of skill)

[ultimatehandyman]

I think I only have stainless studding in the garage, which you need a special blade for.

I'll get some BZP studding tomorrow (might have some in my lock up) and will try it. If I remember I have some old steel flue which I might have to cut on the Rage 2 as it has a larger blade.

What size studding will you be cutting?

P.S. I know where there is a Dewalt Abrasive cut off machine going cheap-

[Razor]

It'll be M10 mate

[Razor]

I'll pick some up tomorrow

[DIY_Johnny]

I wish I paid a little more and got the Evolution Rage instead of my Erbaurer

I wonder whats the difference between this 255mm and this 210mm other than blade size?

[Chop]

I wonder whats the difference between this 255mm and this 210mm other than blade size?

A tenner

The 210 has 1500W motor and the 255 has a 2000W motor. The 255 has a 75mm cut depth and the 210 a 60mm. Can't see any other differences to be fair..

[ultimatehandyman]

I cut about five lengths of M10 studding today, it cuts fairly well although on some of the pieces it left burrs. But the burrs easily broke off and I managed to thread three of the five nuts on the cuts no problems and I had to remove two small burrs by pressing the stud onto the bench but the burrs fell off easily and did not require filing off.


The cut edge was cool but not perfectly smooth like it is when you cut square/flat pieces of metal. This can probably be prevented by using something else to grip the threaded bar instead of clamping it to the machine. Holding round materials for cutting is never easy on this type of machine, it would be much easier holding the studding in the Rage 2 as it clamps materials differently.

In fact, I'll go and try that right now and post back (unless Angie gives me grief )

I tried a piece of Unistrut on the Rage3 and for some reason it does not cut well (I think it's because it's Galvanised), It looks like you have bitten through it with your teeth!

[Razor]

Here are some pictures-

Picture 1 is unistrut cut on the Rage3 B sliding mitre saw

photo 4 (Small).JPG (57.38 KiB) Viewed 12508 times

Picture 2 is unistrut cut on the Rage3 B sliding mitre saw (shown from a different angle)

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Picture 3 is a nut on the end of the steel studding that was cut with the Rage 2

photo 3 (Small) (2).JPG (46.15 KiB) Viewed 12508 times

Picture 4 is Unistrut cut on the Rage 2 ( you can see how smooth it is, apart from a small burr )

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Pictures 5 and 6 are of studding cut on the Rage 2

photo 2 (Small) (2).JPG (55.68 KiB) Viewed 12508 times

photo 1 (Small) (2).JPG (56.72 KiB) Viewed 12508 times

The studding cuts much easier on the Rage 2 and makes it much easier to get the nut started.

The better quality of cut on the Rage 2 must be due to the size and speed of the blade! It also slices through it as fast as the pipe I cut in the video posted above

[Rorschach]

The unistrut is probably a poor cut due to the vibration, your blade/head is not quite as well supported on the sliding mitre saw as opposed to the chop saw and you are taking the cut in a slightly different way.

[ultimatehandyman]

The unistrut is probably a poor cut due to the vibration, your blade/head is not quite as well supported on the sliding mitre saw as opposed to the chop saw and you are taking the cut in a slightly different way.

Yes, now that you have pointed that out it does seem to make sense. I'll try and clamp it closer to the blade next time and see if the cut improves

[Razor]

Awesome!! Thanks for that Chez