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I've got an old stone built house which doesn't have wall cavities. So the only way to insulate it is to build a studded wall containing kingspan on the inside of every outside wall. I've done 3 rooms already. The next room will be a bedroom which I am converting to become a bathroom. This room has 3 outside walls, each of which is going to be studded.

So I was wondering..... Because this room will be completely tiled, is plasterboard the best covering for the studding? For instance, I could put plywood around the inside of the studding. This would certainly be stronger. But will tiles stick to plywood? I just want to do whatever is best.

Ian

as you are converting it to a bathroom I would use a cement based board to tile on to, rather than plasterboard.

"Cement based board" I didn't know there was such a thing. Sounds good. Thank you.

Look at hardiebacker board or no more ply boards

A lot more expensive than plasterboard

kingnewport wrote:A lot more expensive than plasterboard

Yes it is more expensive than plasterboard but won't rot an fall apart unlike plasterboard

If you don't want to go to the cost of using it moisture resistant plasterboard, would be better than standard plasterboard.

The cost isn't so important compared to other things. I'd rather have it right. I just need to be aware of the sheet sizes when i'm building my studding.

Hardie backer in the wet bits and MR plasterboard for the rest

Bear in mind it also depends how heavy the tiles you're proposing to use are as to what you use

There is nothing however wrong with mr plasterboard to tile onto,I've ripped out bathrooms that've been up over 20 years and the boarding has been bone dry and sound.
Bear in mind you have to apply blue grit or bond it if you want to plaster over mr plasterboard or you can simply tape/scrim and fill the joints and screwholes.
Plastering on top of the plasterboard greatly reduces the the weight of tiles that it can carry as well.

You could use normal plasterboard but i would recommend using Gyproc MR Plasterboard (green faced).Not only are they moisture resistant but their structure/density is a lot stronger than normal boards as well.
If you're tiling floor to ceiling, make sure the boards are well secured to their background as there will be a fair bit of weight on them.
If you use MR boards, no need to skim them and would prep them with some waterproof coating/tanking before tiling (recommended although not essential).

"Cement based board" I didn't know there was such a thing. Sounds good

We used it in our bathroom, under the floor tiles. This is the one we used, but others are available. One simply screws it to the wall/floor and tiles direcly onto it. It is very light and easily cut.

http://www.dukkaboard.com/How_to_fix_Dukkaboard.php