Pent lean-to shed build project

[andyj]

Hi guys,

I've spent a few hours this week reading through all of the 'shed' related threads on this forum, and I'm already extremely grateful to everyone for their input on those threads!

Hopefully, the spec I've listed below has taken in to account most of the do's and don'ts of DIY shed-building!

I'm open for any constructive criticism though!

The shed is planned to be sited down the side of the house, making maximum use of the limited space available, and will replace a rickety 6'x4' shed that is about to collapse! Due to this being the only access to the rear of the house, it'll be a galley style storage shed, with all the racking/shelving along the low-side, with the doors off-set on the high-side nearest the house.


4.6m (to allow 4” side overhand of roof using 2 x 2440mm sheets) x 1.8m pent lean-to
1.8m low side, rising to max height of 2.4m - High-side against house with framing only, no cladding
Sitting on current tarmac’d area down the side of the house. 2" paving slabs with DPM, then floor joists, 2' centers (grid-pattern)
Low-side will be 12” from boundary fence, to allow 6” roof over-hang and guttering. Also to allow fence panels to be removed for treating panels and long side of shed.
3”x2” tanalised framing all-round on 2’ (600mm) centres
18mm WBP Ply on roof and floor
5” tanalised ship-lap cladding
Two 3’ access doors, one at either end.
Triangular Hatch above door to allow access to roof space for long items (thanks big-all for the idea

There are no plans for windows due to the position of the shed, and for added security.

[big-all]

if nothing else windows lifts the spirits
on a sunny day nothing better than sunlight streaming through
and when its heavy rain or snow
another advantage off roof opening doors on a hot day the heat that radiates off the roof can be greatly reduced by through flow off air

the more people share good ideas the happier i am its a two way thing

[andyj]

I'll try and get some pics of the plot, and sketchs of the proposed shed, later today.

This will a storage shed rather than a workshop, so I'm not envisaging spending hours out there, unless it's that good that I turn it in to a proper man-cave.....

Sent from my HTC One mini 2 using Tapatalk

[andyj]

Remembered over the weekend, that the floor will also need to have an 'access hatch' built in for a man-hole-cover that sits right where the shed needs to go!

My basic idea was to make the floor-frame with clearance around the man-hole, and then clad the flooring up to 1" from the edge of the space in the frame. The hatch would be made from the plywood that I'll cut out to form the 'hole' and then braced on the back with some 3x2. It'll be one of those things that will never get used. But, if I don't do it, you can guarantee in 12-months time I'll have to rip the shed apart to get to the man-hole cover!

What door furniture (handles, hinges, bolts, locks etc) would you suggest?

I've seen some nice 18" decorative t-hinges. 2 per door, or 3?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261976003929? ... EBIDX%3AIT

Lock wise, I was thinking something like this:



But what handle to go with it?

[big-all]

i have a yale lock
a bolt lock
and a hasp and staple
both the hasp and staple and yale lock need moving summer and winter as the doors move around 10mm like one raises 5mm and the other drops
for the hatch why not as you say cut out the ply to maybe 6-12 inches bigger than the drain remember you may need to lever the edge to get it up
plan a separate frame to lay over the drain cover on a few layers off felt or dpm to keep it dry that you lift out and place to one side

just have a 2" wide frame round the opening then providing the pull out frame is the same level as the floor frame just screw the hatch around the edge as the rest off the floor

[andyj]

Cheers big-all, that's just what I was thinking with regards the access hatch.

Been on the hunt for a local supplier of timber..... at the right price of course! It's amazing how much it differs in price, from place to place.

For the floor-frame, 'rough-sawn' should be Ok, and then I want 'planed' timber for the main frame.

and of course, I'm on the look out for a nice 18v cordless drill-driver to aid in the assembly process. A bloke can never have too many power-tools.......

[big-all]

this offer comes and goes
http://www.diy.com/departments/ryobi-co ... 421_BQ.prd

do not get planed get sawn treated its around half the price and last far longer
i would use 6x2 sawn treated cut down to 3x2" costs around £3.20 metre so cut in half about £1.60

[andyj]

I've found 3x2 locally for £1/m, just need to find a way of getting it home! I can use the work's van, but I don't think I'll get a full 4.8m length in the back.....

[Thewindowguy]

On the roof or tie the back doors
Or ask if they will deliver ?

[steviejoiner74]

Most merchants do free delivery.

[TigerUK]

I've carried 4.8m on the roof of my hatchback. As long as the overhang isn;'t more than 1m on either end of the vehicle it's perfectly legal (of course make sure you're not overweight, most hatchback roof racks have a limit of 60/70kg. You'd need to do several trips to get all the material, but if it's local it shouldn't matter.

While timber merhcants do deliver, they can cost a fair bob or worse delivery orders are picked by their staff so they'll just pick whatever is at the top of the pile. I like to go in myself and pick the planks that I want and I end up rejecting 1/4 to 1/5 of what's on the pile.

What's your reasoning for a 1.8 to 2.4 lean to design? See my 2.35m to 2.15m lean to shed (roofing will add 10cm all across so the total height of the sheed from the natural ground is 2.45m. There's just a 20cm rise from the lowest point to the highest point and there's plenty of slope for the rain to run off. 1.8m low point will make it really low on the eaves side and you will need to duck in order to walk in and out of the shed. I've had a low door on the old shed that was in it's place and I banged my head on the door cap more times than I can remember. The door cap currently sits at 1.7m and In will be moving it up to 1.85

[andyj]

Bit of an update......

Material sourced so far:

4"x2" framing - 70m
3"x2" framing - 70m
4 and 1/2 sheets of 18mm ply (for floor)
3 and 1/2 sheets of 15mm ply (for roof)
16mm x 120mm tanalised shiplap cladding - 200m

All for under £300

Framing has started. Went for 2.1m on the low-side, to allow for a 6'6" door and 4" header above.

Next questions I've got:

1. Z braced door, or fully braced? I'm tempted with fully.
2. Single 3' door at either end, or double (6' potential opening). I'm thinking double....
3. What bolts/locks/hinges to use?
4. Roof material. Felt or Onduline/Coroline?

[big-all]

glad its going well
thanks for taking the time to update us

[andyj]

You're posts/comments have been a big inspiration for ideas etc! Just I hope I can do them justice with the actual build!

For the rafters, would you suggest birds-mouth notches resting on the tops of the side frames?

[andyj]

Floor-frame is now double-coated with Creocote.

Wall frames are all made up from 4"x2". The end walls will actually be double-doors, so I've just made up some double 6"x2" headers that will be supported on 4"x2"s at either side.

With regards the roof-joists, I've ran out of 4"x2"s. I've got some plain 3x2 CLS timber, would this be Ok, or should I invest in either proper 3x2 or 4x2?

Roof will be 15mm WBP Ply, and then felt initially, with possibly Onduline later on when I've got the fund clear by SWMBO