www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk

Building an under stairs cupboard for a friend of a friend.

He wanted the build to match other cupboards he has which are 18mm with 9mm shaker style panelling on edges. Obviously 27mm is on the thick side for doors, especially with an angle.

Thought I'd solved it finding cabinet hinges for thicker doors but the door is catching when opened on the angled side.

Last resort will be to install with butt hinges but really wanted to use cabinet hinges for their adjustability. Any suggestions?

It is the nature of the angled corner the door is fitting into. It is usual to ease it on the inside face to allow the door to close in without snagging. Leave the front door face as it is and ease it from the back forward. The door is a little tight looking at he picture so you might have to take a bit off the top edge.

DWD

Not sure if I quite understand the 'easing it' bit.

Here is a pic of it closed, to show the gaps, the problem is when the door is opening.

Does it still look tight?

Hope I'm making sense, sorry the pics are so close up, I don't have one to show the whole scenario!

Photo

I am trying to remember what I did but I had a similar problem with the doors I did for my son's under stairs cupboard. I used cup hinges (kitchen cabinet type hinges) I recall. The throw of the door snagged on the inside and I had to chamfer it slightly to allow for the swing. This was quite a few years back and I just cannot remember the detail. Sorry

DWD

Looking at the first pic, the door looks as if it's actually inside the face plane of the frame when partially open.

I'd have to say from seeing that that the hinges are probably the wrong choice.

Have you got a link to the hinges you used?

Thanks for this guys. Admittedly a butt hinge would be the obvious choice, but I'm not confident I could manage without the adjustment.

http://www.trade-hinges.co.uk/thick-doo ... -100-p.asp

The problem is that when the door opens, the side of the door where the hinges are sucks the door edge back into the frame, rather than it opening outside of the frame

Personally when faced with these sorta doors I hinge them on the longer side.

Just done the same job at my house a few months back, and came up with the same problem, I got round it the same way DWD said, took door off and planed top inside edge to a taper without touching the top of the door, so it didn't show when the door is shut.

wine~o wrote:Personally when faced with these sorta doors I hinge them on the longer side.

Me too, they still need some serious trimming on the top edge at the hinge side though.

I don't think the existing hinges are going to work, possibly not on either side. The pic below shows their action, (from the next page (to the right) in the OP's link).

Blakey wrote:Just done the same job at my house a few months back, and came up with the same problem, I got round it the same way DWD said, took door off and planed top inside edge to a taper without touching the top of the door, so it didn't show when the door is shut.

That's not going to work here, it's the front face of the door that's catching.

Actually, it would work, but it would look awful when closed.

you normally ease the back but you must hang from the longest side
other choices are a small flat section at the top say 3-6" wide this avoids you having to ease the back and avoids difficult to form and accident prone points
other choice is a frame thick enough to allow the door to open to at least 90%

Mine are hinged on the long side.

I can't hinge on the long side because they're double doors