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oiling a worktop
Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2017 5:46 pm
by keenie
I've had my oak worktop 4 years and oil it every six months, its now got a few black marks and so from careless use or pans (the misses)
do i sand it back or someone said i need to scrape it so the oil penetrates rather than sits on top
not sure how to go about it and don't want to bugger it up as its got a lovely patina now
Re: oiling a worktop
Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2017 9:08 pm
by ayjay
I've never oiled a worktop so know nowt about that, but if you have burn marks and want to remove them, a cabinet scraper will get there eventually, (how long it takes depends on how deep the burn goes), you will be taking the timber back to a completely new surface so the patina will be gone from that area.
If you want to retain the patina all over, the burn marks will have to remain as part of that patina, which is what patina is all about anyway, isn't it?
There's some info on oiling a new worktop from J&K in this topic here:-
solid-oak-worktop-joint-and-belfast-sink-t91770.html
I've tended to use Junckers Worktop Oil, others on here recommend Osmo Polyox. There are, I'm afraid, major differences in the quality of Danish oils, so I tend to avoid them unless I know the brand. Your oil needs to be food grade, so confirm this before applying it. Your cut ends will need 1 to 2 coats more than the rest of the worktop (end grain absorbs more oil), the rest will need 2 coats ALL OVER (top, bottom, ends, edges - front and back) before being installed and then a 3rd coat after a 4 to 5 days. I always do another top coat at the 4 week stage and then once or twice a year thereafter. Finicky, I know, but making it last and keeping it looking good takes a bit of effort