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Missus instructed me to take out 500mm base unit to fit washing machine in to instead.

No problem but now have 500mm worktop to fit over 600mm washing machine. Missus has no problem with the 100mm of washing machine showing, but how can i support the open end of the worktop?

Worktop is 38mm chipboard laminate .

The worktop we have is still available from wickes / travis perkins but it's £47 for 3m and i would only need a little more than 600mm and i would only have a 15mm gap from the washing machine to the cooker next to it.

I've got the battening to the rear wall which will support the back of the worktop, was thinking if battening the underside of the worktop to the existing worktop would support the weight? Or is there an L bracket that would help, without the \ diagonal support as no room.
I've seen the worktop joining bolts so could use these, but would they be substantial enough, perhaps with the battening on the underside they would?

Any advice much appreciated

Just and only to clarify, are you saying that to accomodate the washing machine next to the cooker (weird, have you sorted the plumbing), not only did you remove a 500mm base unit but you also moved the cooker 100mm to the right? i.e. the piece of worktop in your picture was there originally?

My missus has bright ideas like that too, but I don't follow them through. What is the other side of the cooker? Picture a wider view of the room in case somebody has a better solution?

Re-reading your post, assuming you spent £47 at Wickes (maybe they've got a damaged bit going cheap) then the answer may be a Decor Panel - an upright panel 870mm high x 600mm deep (you will have to trim) under the r/h end of the w/top, adjacent to the cooker and taking up 18mm width.

There's no way to support the rhs of the new piece of worktop from the existing worktop, you need either a 500mm wm or a 600mm piece of worktop, (approx dimensions) and then either a support leg or preferably a full end panel.

Cheers, guess that would be the case.

Have emailed local branches of t&p to see if they have a damaged one going cheap, if not will have to fork out the full price.
Will slot an end panel in and support the end that way.

I guess joining bolts will suffice joining the 600mm length to the existing worktop, or should i place an end panel under that too?...... ok now I've typed it i realise the answer will be a yes.

Btw, there is no movement on the other side of the cooker, it's butt up against another base unit.

Thanks for your comments.

portlanders wrote:
I guess joining bolts will suffice joining the 600mm length to the existing worktop, or should i place an end panel under that too?...... ok now I've typed it i realise the answer will be a yes.

Do you have a router and worktop jig to - a)cut out for the joining bolts and - b) cut a masons mitre in the worktops?

It could (mostly) be done in situ with a router but would be much easier with the l/h top removed.

ayjay wrote:

portlanders wrote:
I guess joining bolts will suffice joining the 600mm length to the existing worktop, or should i place an end panel under that too?...... ok now I've typed it i realise the answer will be a yes.

Do you have a router and worktop jig to - a)cut out for the joining bolts and - b) cut a masons mitre in the worktops?

It could (mostly) be done in situ with a router but would be much easier with the l/h top removed.

Nope none of those, i had a multi tool which i thought i could cut the straights and chisel out, and a drill for the hole for the wing nuts. Will have to do it insitu, upside down :(
Then once in go over with colorfill.

portlanders wrote: i had a multi tool which i thought i could cut the straights and chisel out, and a drill for the hole for the wing nuts. Will have to do it insitu, upside down :(
Then once in go over with colorfill.

It won't look very pretty without a Mason's mitre. A straight join will leave a gap where the edge is rounded over.

Just an idea: Can the existing worktop be moved right and an infill more discreetly fit the other end?

Another idea, any reason the worktop needs to be fixed? Given what you have said I think any join is going to look terrible. How about putting some rubber feet under the worktop and just sit it on the washing machine?

aeromech3 wrote:Just an idea: Can the existing worktop be moved right and an infill more discreetly fit the other end?

End to end joints in worktops never look that pretty IMHO and can sometimes be difficult to seal, especially if one piece has more bow across the width than the other. Your response did get me thinking, though - what about another piece in a completely different material? I did once install a granite extension (breakfast bar) at the end of a kitchen with a solid beech worktop at the client's request and TBH it looked pretty decent

Rorschach wrote:Another idea, any reason the worktop needs to be fixed? Given what you have said I think any join is going to look terrible. How about putting some rubber feet under the worktop and just sit it on the washing machine?

Yeah, I'd have to agree, but if the short top is jointed onto the existing at one end and supported on the washing machine at the other then surely the vibration on spin cycle will inevitably transfer to the joint and destroy it in due course

Job and Knock wrote: Yeah, I'd have to agree, but if the short top is jointed onto the existing at one end and supported on the washing machine at the other then surely the vibration on spin cycle will inevitably transfer to the joint and destroy it in due course

Sorry if my suggestion wasn't clear, I meant no joins at all. Just have the worktop freestanding on the washing machine. I have a piece like that sat on top of cooker, hides the ugliness of it and gives us extra workspace.