circular saw question

fin · Post by **fin** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 5:22 pm

used my new circular today. but i think there may be a problem with it.

the blade isnt parallel to the shoe. ie the leading edge of the blade is closer than the trailing edge. Are all circulars like this? or has mine got a fault?

cheers

sparkydude · Post by **sparkydude** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 5:51 pm

sounds like a fault to me otherwise how can you use a straight edge as a guide against the shoe if the blade is not square to it.What make of saw is it ?

Nick

fin · Post by **fin** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:29 pm

yes i thought that and noticed something up when using it to cut a kitchen work top.

its a hitachi model number is i think c-u70 or something along those lines.

its only a few mm but i guess its too much to use again.

maybe i should take it back to wickes and see what they say. i bought it in december so still got loadsa guarantee left

sparkydude · Post by **sparkydude** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:01 pm

Unusual to find it in a well known brand, but as you have shown not imposssible. Have you made sure the blade is straight, and that it is seated correctly on the saw itself, try taking it off and re fitting it to see if that makes any difference.

Nick

fin · Post by **fin** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:04 pm

ill check it out tomorrow. though if i turn the blade by hand (not plugged in obviously lol) there is no variation in the run out from front to back
. and no vibrations or anything ie if it was out of ballance or something.

Hitch · Post by **Hitch** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:25 pm

Just measured mine, its a fraction out, not even 0.5mm. (Mines a C7SB2)

I gather none of the brackets are bent? When the blade is at minimum depth the bar does allow it to move a mm or so, but is ridgid at maximum cut.

fin · Post by **fin** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:22 pm

ill get a pic tomorrow. but it looks to be a few mm out. deffo more than 0.5mm

fin · Post by **fin** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 11:38 pm

ok i had another check, maybe 2 mm out. is that an acceptable amount?

big-all · Post by **big-all** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 8:45 am

fin wrote:ok i had another check, maybe 2 mm out. is that an acceptable amount?

no not realy because it means the back off the saw blade has more work to do as cutting with the blunt back off the teeth causes more friction

although the riving knife will fight to pull the blade into the slot cut by the front off the blade this will make it difficult to hold the base against a strait edge or the fence

i would say 1mm would be ok but not 2mm

dewaltdisney · Post by **dewaltdisney** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 11:17 am

Have a close look at the screws holding the shoe on. Sometimes the holes are slightly elongated to allow for truing up. If not you may be able to enlarge the holes for this purpose.

DWD

fin · Post by **fin** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 1:37 pm

right, ill get a pic for you guys to look at. the riving knife is in line with the blade

incidentaly i checked out my battery trim saw. its an old performance power pro tool. its out but the oposite way lol though thats only a barely used tool anyway

Hitch · Post by **Hitch** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 7:12 pm

Id think it would be worse on a battery tool, much less cutting per charge, due to the extra drag.

I dont know if it has the same base setup as mine Fin, the only way adjustment could be got is by reming the bracket on the trailing end, and tapping it either direction slightly.