Kitchen Tiling
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Kitchen Tiling
Hi
It might be a stupid question but never done this before.
I will be installing new kitchen and put a tiles on the floor.
My question is: Does the all floor in the kitchen must be tiled or should i skip these parts where kitchen units will be installed (drawers,etc)
I think it should be all but wants to double check.
Many Thanks for help
Luc
It might be a stupid question but never done this before.
I will be installing new kitchen and put a tiles on the floor.
My question is: Does the all floor in the kitchen must be tiled or should i skip these parts where kitchen units will be installed (drawers,etc)
I think it should be all but wants to double check.
Many Thanks for help
Luc
- thescruff
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Thanks all for answer.
It's fitted kitchen but there is some open spaces for free standing washing machine or fridge. Also I presume cutting the plinth would be much more work, and could possibly damage the units if not done professionally.
So the best option will be tile the whole lot.
As I have a wooden subfloor I would need also some MDF board screwed to it first and then use ,per your advice, the flexible adhesive?
It's fitted kitchen but there is some open spaces for free standing washing machine or fridge. Also I presume cutting the plinth would be much more work, and could possibly damage the units if not done professionally.
So the best option will be tile the whole lot.
As I have a wooden subfloor I would need also some MDF board screwed to it first and then use ,per your advice, the flexible adhesive?
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- Mr. Grumpy
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I would definitly tile the lot if you haven't fixed the units yet as it means you can alter the kitchen in years to come, i.e. remove a cupboard and put in a dishwasher for example. Also I read that it makes it easier to see leaks as it will run along the tile, makes sense to me
You should use 12mm plywood (not MDF) screwed at 150mm centers, flexable tile adhesive. Alternatively use 9mm hardibacker or flooring aquapanel to keep the height down, tiles stick well to this.
I primed the ply with neat BAL SBR which is brilliant, its like walking on cellotape No need to prime aquapanel. Joints should be offset I believe
Also, you should plan setting it out, think and rethink where the tiles will go as you don't want a sliver at a door or a threshold, nor do you want the line of the tiles running off in the wrong direction.
I perfer thin (2 or 3mm) spacers as kitchen floors also get dirty. but if you are doing a coloured grout where its a feature maybe you want a thicker tile spacer.
I found a bag of plastic packers very helpful to level up tiles. you can get these from toolstation or screwfix. I'll bet pro tilers never uuse them but its handy for a novice like us to get the height correct.
Don't worry if it does look perfect, the tile grout improves it immensely
Also I really dislike the rapidset adhesive, it sets too quickly and I work far too slow. Most here I think don't have a problem with it but I usually end up having to cut as a I go and normal set is ideal for this
Finally; I am not a tiler, just reguritating what I read and my experience of DIY tiling. The lads can point out if I have it wrong
Good luck!
You should use 12mm plywood (not MDF) screwed at 150mm centers, flexable tile adhesive. Alternatively use 9mm hardibacker or flooring aquapanel to keep the height down, tiles stick well to this.
I primed the ply with neat BAL SBR which is brilliant, its like walking on cellotape No need to prime aquapanel. Joints should be offset I believe
Also, you should plan setting it out, think and rethink where the tiles will go as you don't want a sliver at a door or a threshold, nor do you want the line of the tiles running off in the wrong direction.
I perfer thin (2 or 3mm) spacers as kitchen floors also get dirty. but if you are doing a coloured grout where its a feature maybe you want a thicker tile spacer.
I found a bag of plastic packers very helpful to level up tiles. you can get these from toolstation or screwfix. I'll bet pro tilers never uuse them but its handy for a novice like us to get the height correct.
Don't worry if it does look perfect, the tile grout improves it immensely
Also I really dislike the rapidset adhesive, it sets too quickly and I work far too slow. Most here I think don't have a problem with it but I usually end up having to cut as a I go and normal set is ideal for this
Finally; I am not a tiler, just reguritating what I read and my experience of DIY tiling. The lads can point out if I have it wrong
Good luck!
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- Mr. Grumpy
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Sorry I reread your post, I see you have the units fitted already, Cutting the plinths is not all that hard, i did it.
Its best to cut the top part, i.e. not the part that tips the floor as if you remove the facing if will go to sh#t when water gets at it. Although you can get those plastic plinth thingies (like you have at the botom of a shower screen) from B&Q, Made by Homelux I think.
To cut the plinth you need a circular saw and a plane. Electric planer is very useful. Hand plane is hard I found especially if you don't have a workbench You can get both of these cheap in toolstation / screwfix and will do the job
Its best to cut the top part, i.e. not the part that tips the floor as if you remove the facing if will go to sh#t when water gets at it. Although you can get those plastic plinth thingies (like you have at the botom of a shower screen) from B&Q, Made by Homelux I think.
To cut the plinth you need a circular saw and a plane. Electric planer is very useful. Hand plane is hard I found especially if you don't have a workbench You can get both of these cheap in toolstation / screwfix and will do the job
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Re: Kitchen Tiling
The units are still not fitted.
Sorry if you misread me.
I've found the flex adhesive like GranFix or BAL, assume that would be good.
Also which screews use for plywood, spax screws (I google it somewhere)?
Sorry if you misread me.
I've found the flex adhesive like GranFix or BAL, assume that would be good.
Also which screews use for plywood, spax screws (I google it somewhere)?