Tile edging

[scotsman]

Hi all and let me say this is 1 of the best diy sites i've came across.

Couple of things if you dont mind me asking.....a while back we
splashed out and bought floor tiles for our kitchen, i put them down
and thought i had did a fantastic job, thought i did. Few weeks later
a few cracked so i thought it was my 1st time and as i had a few left
relayed them.................they cracked to.
It was only then i realised and was told there was 2 types of laying mat,
1 for wood and 1 for concrete..........i had bought the concrete and i
had a wooden floor.
In homebase last week there was a closing down sale and they had some
lovley black tiles at 2.99 per pack....2.99 we thought so i have them
and after i lift the ones down i'll relay...........it's embarrasing telling
any1 this.
1-Whats the best mat for wood floor, not floor boards, that BnQ or
Homebase sell?
2.Our bathroom tiles, which were already up look good except for the
plastic edging that runs along the top of the tile, is this easy to remove?
and whats best fro replacing it.

Been at it outside the last 2 days, laying 3x2 concrete slabs and man
i'm shattered digging out by hand and mixing concrete by hand has
left me...wasted.....but i'm 10 times better with slabs than tiles.

Thanks

Mark

[ultimatehandyman]

Hi Mark,

I am not familiar with the laying mat's infact I have not even heard of them before!

When tiling wooden floors you will not go far wrong if you follow the advice here- http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/tilin ... floors.htm

You can get some adhesives that say that you can tile directly onto old floorboards etc. but it is better if you either overboard or replace with WBP ply.

As for the tile trim it depends on how it is fixed, some people simply bed them into the adhesive and others nail it to the wall and cover it with adhesive.

You could try and gently ease it up and see if it moves. You could probably cut behind it to loosen the trim using a fein multimaster, but they are expensive for one off jobs.

Laying slabs and concrete is hard work, especially if you don't have a cement mixer

[scotsman]

Mat was short for materials..................sorry

[ultimatehandyman]

Mat was short for materials..................sorry

Ah Right

Your tiles probably cracked because the adhesive for concrete floors is not flexible enough to accomodate the movement that you get with wooden floors.

I'd still overboard it with WBP ply though and then tile on top of that, using some flexible adhesive for wooden floors. BAL seem to be a popular choice for the pro's - http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/bal/index.html

[Only-Me]

As the man said........lift the tiles......clean off the old cement. And you could either remove chipboard (I assume) and replace with 25mm ply

Or if the old cement does come off ok........overboard with 12mm ply.

THEN...........as mentioned, use a flexible cement and flexible grout.

BnQ/Homebase....forget them.........go to somewhere like Topps Tiles.

You could also use Bal fastflex........but if you have never used it before......forget it cos its tooo expensive to waste

[Jaeger_S2k]

And pin the ply every 6 inches.

[Only-Me]

And pin the ply every 6 inches.

Screw It

[Jaeger_S2k]

And pin the ply every 6 inches.

With screws

[panlid]

i do it every four inches. its what the manufacturer recommends

[Jaeger_S2k]

Of the Ply?

Of the Tiles?

Of the Adhesive?