wall unit for boiler

[mikecarey]

what would be best way to hide this horrible eysore?

[thescruff]

You could box the pipes in underneath the boiler.

What is that lump of wood doing other than forcing the case over.

[mikecarey]

was gunna box in but the pipes are visable when the cover is on on and are in a L shape like from the work top up to boiler then stick out, if u get me, n the wood i thought of getting a piece of wood down the side cover the gap n hide the trunking

[thescruff]

You can't distort the boiler case like that, or is it an illusion.

[mikecarey]

i dont get you?

[thescruff]

The piece of wood on the right is pushing the case over so it isn't fitting properly.

[mikecarey]

its only slight wedged in, least of worries :p them ugly pipes r the worst, need cover them but be able have access and what about covering them and ventilation?

[thescruff]

A casing not fitted properly can kill you and or the family, ugly pipes can't.

[dave.m]

This is what I did to tidy up the corner where we fitted our boiler.

used one piece of 15mm Contiboard 2400 x 350mm, one spare handle from the kitchen units, a couple of hinges, screws and a bit of nous to figure what I wanted.

The bottom panel is hinged to get to the fill line and the other plumbing if necessary, and the top panel is held on with two screws to get to the flue and exhaust.

The boss was very pleased with it after nagging for a couple of years, and she was surprised at my DIY Skills.

dave

[Inky Pete]

Had a very similar installation in my last house (although mine was quite as much of a dogs breakfast as that!). I just made up an L shaped "half box" out of two pieces of MDF screwed to a batten down the corner. I made it tall enough to just slide under the boiler, and deep enough to sit nicely over the pipework.

Then I tiled it to match the wall and just used it as a free-standing cover which could be very easily removed for access to what was behind it.

That bit of wood does look like it's forcing the boiler casing over to one side, even if just a little bit - really not good! I'd just leave the gap beside the boiler as it is, I don't think it'll look too disasterous once the pipework is covered.

[joinerjohn]

You could possibly box the whole boiler in, but be careful to follow the manufacturers instructions about minimum clearances. I recently fitted a kitchen for a customer and their boiler is now hidden in a tall larder unit with a 600mm x 300mm bridging unit on top (c/w clad on end panels) I followed the MI's regarding clearances too, although some combi boilers need rather large clearances.

[wine~o]

used one piece of 15mm Contiboard 2400 x 350mm, one spare handle from the kitchen units, a couple of hinges, screws and a bit of nous....

Can't find any nous is either B&Q or the toolstation catalogue...

The boss was very pleased with it after nagging for a couple of years, and she was surprised at my DIY Skills.

dave

I would have hoped that you'd picked up one or two tips somewhere along the line on here...

[Job and Knock]

I'm with Scruff on the pipes - they really need to be boxed in. 12mm MDF onto 1 x 1in PAR softwood battens will do the trick. Make sure that you can unscrew and remove the front cover if needs be (so screws under snap-on cups). Don't like screw cups? Invset in some magnetic latch pieces or the plastic panel clips that Häfele sell. The switch isn't positioned very neatly. I'd consider splitting the front cover of the boxing so that the lower part at the front was fixed with the access panel above. The switch plate and its patress box can then be moved onto this panel. Heck, you can even tile it to match the rest of the walls. That's pretty much what Inky Peter said, so there's at least three of us recommending action. Incidentally you couldn't get away with leaving pipework like that on anu paying job I've ever done - and that includes coumcil houses

For the main heater body I'd consider building a 2 x 1in PAR softwood frame, getting an end panel to match your units amd a matching door, handles and hinges. The frame goes at the front of the boiler and is attached to the end panel which is then attached to the wall to the left of the heater. The door is swung to fill the gap. You effectively have a cupboard with no top or bottom so the gas guys won't go bananas about it, but it looks just like your other units, especially if you fit matching pelmet and cornice (assuming the rest of the kitchen has them). As others have said, be careful to follow the OEMs guidelines on clearances, etc