Sockets for lamps only

[Jaeger_S2k]

Hi,
I have always liked the way the Septics control table and standing lamps via a wall light switch. I'd like to do the same with one end of the lounge and have the light switch on the wall at the door control the sockets for a table and a standing lamp.

Are there 'special' sockets for such or would it need to be 13 amp standard sockets?
If so should I run it into the ring main for the room and can a light switch handle 2.5mill twin and earth and the potential current if someone was to plug a larger consumable into one of the sockets, like a vacuum cleaner?

Thanks

Allan

[ultimatehandyman]

Not sure if there are different sockets for this or not. You can't use a standard light switch to switch the socket on and off because a light switch will only disconnect the live wire and not the neutral and so a double pole switch would be required.

Have you considered a remote control for the socket?

You can then switch the light on from anywhere in the room.

http://www.cyberselect.co.uk/product/469

[Jaeger_S2k]

Not sure if there are different sockets for this or not. You can't use a standard light switch to switch the socket on and off because a light switch will only disconnect the live wire and not the neutral and so a double pole switch would be required.

Have you considered a remote control for the socket?

You can then switch the light on from anywhere in the room.

http://www.cyberselect.co.uk/product/469

The remote switch would get round that.

I think the Yanks get away with it with the 110 volts too.

[sparkydude]

There are specific sockets availble for this job, in either 2 or 5 amp rating. see linkl below for pictures
http://www.mkelectric.co.uk/products/ra ... ngeid=1030

To make them work with a lightswitch you will probably have to use a junction box . Take the cables from the sockets you want switched to the box, take a cable to the switch, do a few connections in the box and voila you have sockets switched by a light switch. If you are going to do this then i will explain it in more detail but for now that gives you the general idea of it.

Nick

[Jaeger_S2k]

Aha,
That's the fella's. Have looked at the other ranges too some nice gear from MK always liked the quality of their fittings.

I think I've got it, but I'm open to correction.

Get round sockets and round plugs for the items to be used, save silly things like the Dyson being shoved in.

I would have gone for the light circuit or should it be on the main?

I would have broken the live and nuet at the J/box and taken switch wires to the switch but as UHM said would this not need to be double pole?

Like this range too but they don't do such a selection http://www.mkelectric.co.uk/products/it ... ngeid=1068.

I look forward to the rest of the instructions Nick.

[sparkydude]

Right to wire them up you would take a1.0 or 1.5 twin and earth from each socket to the j box if you want them switched individually or link them all together on one cable if you want them all switched together.
At the J box the neutrals for your sockets will be connected to the dircuit neutral. the live from your sockets will go in a terminal on its own with the switched live you have brought up from your switch. All you will need to get down to the switch is a core of cable to switch each socket or sockets, if you have 5 sockets you want to switch individually then you need 6 cores, a live feed from the Jbox to the switch and then 5 return switched lives to your sockets for example.The number of cores needed can be made up using single core and earth , twin and earth or three core and earth . If you use multicore cables and do not use some of the cores then these must be joined to the earth terminal at the joint box and the switch .New rules from the NICEIC as to what your meant to do with unused cores of cables. It goes without saying all earths must be joined together at the joint boxes and at the sockets .

Any more help needed get back to me

Nick