a bosch 10.8/12v router

[big-all]

have run the router with a roundover with a querk[1mm step each end off the curve]
it worked faultlessly
decided today to go for 7mmx5.5mm rebate with a newish 2ah battery and it worked well on a 18" x12" on 3 sides
on the third corner where the load is more than doubled it "overloaded" for about 2 mins
now off course you can lightly rout out the corners where the load is 2 or three times as much to negate the load
it cut very clean did not "chatter " or give uneven surface at all as you would think a slow revolving cutter may do
but worked very well
would i chose it as my rebate router perhaps not as i have several 18v routers but as a hinge or other light routing its great

[Job and Knock]

Are you sure about the hinge jig use? If it slows down under load that might be a problem for anyone routing a hinge recess in stringy Far Eastern hardwood (as found on a typical fire door lipping) as it could result in a rough edge - and unlike edge profiling sanding is not an option. A couple of other questions you don't answer B-A: what does it do when the battery is discharged? Does it self-protect by turning off and does it stay locked-off until the user goes through a restart procedure? Also what is the dust extraction like?

[big-all]

no extraction possible
no way off attaching collets
cutter offset from central position making start/finish points awkward requiring working to a mark rather than by feel
the thing that really sold it to me was the narrow base allowing cutting into tighter spaces for adapting refurbing rather than from new
i said the battery cut out for about 2 mins in hind site it was probably near 20-30 seconds
i wouldnt even think off using it on less than a 4amp battery unless the battery size was a problem but there again i already have a choice so only pick it up for confined areas rather than the go too tool
as for flat battery procedure i tend to put them on charge when below half but will carry on using it with the same 2ah battery for a full cycle and see what happens but on such a high draw tool would expect that to be about 8-10 more metres off the same rebate size

[big-all]

ok an up date
i have several battery routers so not my go to machine until now ----------
------the reason
unlike a normal router that will sound like a planer in volume so a "ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ" scream
its more a sander "mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm" buzz
so far less disruptive when you have to consider people near by
now i am only using it for a 3mm roundover[3mm curve ]so a light load with little or no noticeable noise increase when actually moulding
the only real complaint is you have to relearn where to start the pass as the cutter is a few inches behind the natural machine center line
i have also found it can cause you to lean the machine a bit because its off centre and the single hand position is at an angle so the natural synergy between brain tool and 90% needs you to relearn to get the feel for the tool
in short a great tool but not for more than a little bit off medium duty 1/4" routing [50% shank width as depth off cut]as in it can easily do a 7x7mm rebate in softwood or mdf but is near or on capacity so router and batteries will frequently cut out and quickly go flat

[Job and Knock]

Sounds like what you are saying is that the Makita DRT50 is a better tool........

[big-all]

i am reigning in expectations
as i say it can do quite heavy but will show up weak batteries or overload more than is useful
where as in a trade situation you need constant and relentless power with little down time
remember the bosch will work with any batteries and the average bosch battery will be say 2ah or 10.8vx2=21.6wh where as the makita with a say 3 or 4ah battery will be 18x3=54 or 72wh so nearing 2.5 and 3.5 times the fuel tank so less frustrating

[Job and Knock]

A sort of update on this; I found this review on YouTube from BodgeItWithBrian:



What I did take from his review is that the shape is fairly ergonomic (despite the offset base) and that the sort of offset shape of the base probably makes this tool more stable than a traditional laminate trimmer when edge profiling. Not sure how well I would do with it when freehand hogging the waste from a hinge recess - his technique is very unstable but turning the tool round so that the main part of the base was on the door or the door casing might cause other handling issues (could you, for example, still hold the power on?). In particular I didn't like the depth setting method which seems to say the least crude. TBH his hinge recessing technique makes me cringe, too! Although idea of using a dovetail cutter instead of a straight bit is intriguing - personally I tend to use hinge mortise cutters:

Wealden Hinge Mortising Cutter 001_01.gif (6.41 KiB) Viewed 8580 times

for the task as they clean out the waste faster and more cleanly than similar size straight cutters (not designed for plunge work, though) then finish off with a nice sharp chisel.

Another word of warning ( ) - don't copy his technique of pulling the router/trimmer towards you as one slip could result in a DIY appendectomy - ALWAYS push the router away from your body from behind which makes it easier to control as well as easier to apply the necessary inward pressure onto the material to make a clean cut - oh and if you do have an accident it will only result in a dropped router, not a session with bandages

[big-all]

the offset cutter is a mixture off good and awkward
if you have all the base supported and you go round a corner you have to rotate the machine or rely on the small part off the base
now its not a big problem but requires you to think rather than use your subconscious in the same way bad stance or wrong working height can effect your accuracy

i had to laugh at his"34mm wasnt a good level off support "