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Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:54 pm
by tim'll fix it
you cant beat a quciksilver twinthread, cheap as chips :lol:

Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 11:53 pm
by Scrit
That advice makes me seem like a right finicky b'stard,but it saves having to sort out the problems later when the head shears..... :mad:

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 4:43 am
by ultimatehandyman
Scrit wrote:That advice makes me seem like a right finicky b'stard,but it saves having to sort out the problems later when the head shears..... :mad:
Not at all, I certainly didn't know the bit about the pilot hole etc!

I think I will be making a page on screws at some point, I will add the info on there to help other diy'ers.

Thanks

chez

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 8:22 am
by Scrit
ultimatehandyman wrote:I think I will be making a page on screws at some point........
Priceless! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 7:05 pm
by Hitch
The stainless steel tends to build up a lot of friction which builds up the heat making them easy to shear off. Stainless bolts have a habit of binding up if your keep undoing/doing up. A little coper grease helps no end. Never tried it on SS woodscrews though :|

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 8:45 pm
by rocco
Scrit wrote:Rocco

Did you treat the stainless screws as you would treat brass ones - i.e. pilot drill, run in a bright steel screw 80% of the way, back-it out then screw-in your stainless screw? Brass screws can shear in hardwoods if you don't do this and s/steel are the same

Scrit
Hi Scrit

I just put them in with a drill/driver, no pilot hole.

Next time I will drill a pilot hole, I still prefer them to brass screws as they are pozidrive and so are easier to drive than flat brass screws.

Cheers Rocco

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 9:36 pm
by Scrit
Hitch wrote:Stainless bolts have a habit of binding up if your keep undoing/doing up. A little copper grease helps no end.
For woodworking you generally use either wax soft soap, HM (hence the term "to soft soap" I believe)

Scrit