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Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:31 pm
by marc1106
losgiganteskid wrote:lockie wrote:Ask yourself this why is it advised to leave a 10mm gap around the edges when laying laminate ?
The answer it is because it expands and contracts.How can your tiles do the same when it expands and contracts.
It may stick well enough but the grout will open up at it expands, the tiles may even crack too.
There is no gap surrounding the laminate - it abutts up against the skirting and over the years has not moved a jot due I guess to it having been stuck down with pinkgrip
in the words of Theo Paphitis " IM OUT" ! its obvious that you know better than the likes of me, (ive only stuck about 4000 metres of tiles down and up over the years) so go ahead stick your tiles to your laminate it will be fine, okey dokey, no problemo!
there you go tou got what you wanted to hear! BYEEEEEEEE
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:32 pm
by Gadget
handyman wrote:go for it.............................please
Behave!...
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:33 pm
by losgiganteskid
handyman wrote:go for it.............................please
It's way pat your bedtime - Handyman
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:35 pm
by Gadget
marc1106 wrote:losgiganteskid wrote:lockie wrote:Ask yourself this why is it advised to leave a 10mm gap around the edges when laying laminate ?
The answer it is because it expands and contracts.How can your tiles do the same when it expands and contracts.
It may stick well enough but the grout will open up at it expands, the tiles may even crack too.
There is no gap surrounding the laminate - it abutts up against the skirting and over the years has not moved a jot due I guess to it having been stuck down with pinkgrip
in the words of Theo Paphitis " IM OUT" ! its obvious that you know better than the likes of me, (ive only stuck about 4000 metres of tiles down and up over the years) so go ahead stick your tiles to your laminate it will be fine, okey dokey, no problemo!
there you go tou got what you wanted to hear! BYEEEEEEEE
4000 metres?.............thats some ***kin' bathroom!..
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:38 pm
by diyguys
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:59 pm
by Razor
Dunno what all the fuss is about
If the tiles start to lift they could always nail them back down
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 9:04 pm
by Gadget
Razor wrote:Dunno what all the fuss is about
If the tiles start to lift they could always nail them back down
Don't be daft, tile nailing was banned in the 60's!
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 9:10 pm
by DIY_Johnny
losgiganteskid wrote:DIY_Johnny wrote:Although it may have stuck well now as you say. I simply can't see that its anywhere near as stuck as on ply (I'm not a tiler though!). When I did mine I primed the ply with BAL SBR neat and use flex tile adhesive.
I had to take a few tiles up a month later and its was stuck hard, some even ripped the ply taking the tiles up
Hi Johnny - if your tiles were put down correctly on ply - why was it necessary to "take a few tiles up a month later" ? - perhaps you should have laid them on laminate !!
Your right! Good thinking
what I should have done is laid the lot on laminate and just lift the whole lot up and put it to one side while I repaired a pipe.
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 9:14 pm
by handyman
losgiganteskid wrote:handyman wrote:go for it.............................please
It's way pat your bedtime - Handyman
Your obviously some sort of wasting everyones time trolling t*at. Hopefully you will be banned from the forum soon
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 9:36 pm
by The Weegie
If a couple of tiles on your floor crack through time which they will. It will be easier to just tile on top of the existing tiles. After all it is a solid unmoveable floor.
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 10:06 pm
by lockie
Thinking about it the best thing to do is turn the laminate upside down and tile on that.If the tiles do crack just turn it up the other way and hey presto you still have a nice laminate floor.
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 10:45 pm
by dave.m
Why ask for advice and then spend days arguing that you will not take it because you know best.
Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 7:54 am
by Steve the Gas
Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 9:14 am
by sparkydude
You have to think outside of the box here . Simply use silicone to bed the tiles down and then grout the joints with silicone too, probably cheaper than flexible adhesive and will give a nice bouncy rubbery feeling when walking on the floor . Waterproof too
ok ok i have never tried it never seen it done before but hey it might work LoL
Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 6:28 pm
by python
Which way does your bathroom door open, into the bathroom or into the hall?
The reason I ask is that there may be a suitable alternative which would allow you to leave the laminate down.
If your bathroom door opens outward then you could put 100mm of well compacted hardcore in the bathroom, then 100mm of concrete, be sure to leave a good finish though, or you will also need to screed. You shouldn't need re-bar in the concrete unless you have a particularly large bathroom.
Then you will have a nice solid survace to tile on, and your laminate can stay.
You could make a small brickwork step at the entrance, which might look nice. depending on budget, you could even use some nice patio slabs instead of tiles. Indian sandstone look nice.
Be sure to use sand and cement instead of tile adhesive if you decide to use slabs though, otherwise you'll just be throwing money away.
If your door opens into the bathroom, you're pretty much screwed though.